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Climbs 41
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Abermawr is the large bay to the north of Mathry with a steep shingle beach and the remains of ice age forests exposed at low spring tides. Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.

This page covers all the major and minor crags in the Abermawr area.

Llech Dafad - a big atmospheric crag with steep routes on rock of varying quality. All grades and descriptions should be treated with caution, especially when pegs are mentioned.

Carreg Aber Bach - a steep crag with 2 impressive lines above a huge sea cave. Check fixed gear before ascents.

Carreg Golchfa - a few minor routes found on the promontory north of the northern most headland at Aber Bach.

Morfa Slabs - some very overgrown climbs, to the west of Abermawr. Found beneath the coast path.

Penmorfa - a few routes below the impressive Iron Age Fort (Castell Coch).

Trwyn Llwynog - 300m west of Penmorfa is some more slab climbs.

Approach notes

Llech Dafad approach - park at Aberbach beach, approximately 200m from end of road. Take the path to Aberbach beach and cross the beach where the coast path can be accessed leading north (stream crossing needed). After 750m, stile 123 is reached with the crag below this.

Carreg Aber Bach approach - from Aber Bach follow the coast path north for 500m. Pass some wooden posts on the right and immediately cross vegetated slopes towards a small promontory north of a large cave.

Penmorfa approach - follow the coast path to the first promontory 800m west of Abermawr and 250m west of Morfa Slabs. Routes on the northwest corner of the headland. (Penmorfa Slab, on the west side of headland).

Trwyn Llwynog approach - 300m west of Penmorfa is another headland, beyond which the coast changes orientation from west to north. On the west of the bay (Porth Mawr) are some slabs. The far west corner of the headland has some more routes. After Penmorfa the path swings right towards the next headland. For the slabs walk through vegetation from the first sharp left hand bend, or for the next venue, turn right at the next left hand bend towards the western extremity of the promontory.

Access Advice

Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Variable restriction sometimes apply - see on-site signing. There is usually a restriction from 1st March - 1st August affecting the whole crag, assume thsi is in place unless signage says differently...

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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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