Climbs 22
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Faces SW
new lines © alexmannionclimbing
Crag features
The quarry just after the village of abertysswg. Boulders are a good height and have quality rock and moves.
High up are a maze of large buttresses only a few of which have routes developed.
Sunny and not unreasonably prone to seepage.
Two closed projects.
Approach notes
Just after abertysswg keep following the road until a sharp left is reached. Directly in front is a small lane, drive down here and park by some small blocks. Walk 2 mins down the path until a path up left is reached. Walk up and shewring etc is on your left. For pitstar keep following main path until to amazing aretes are seen up and left. The pit and block are below this just right.
The routes are high up on the left side of the extensive quarry. Follow the path up through the trees and bracken directly from the parked car. In 12.69mins the first area.the ivied tower of Flock Ewe is reached then a steep precarious path across the scree leads to the other buttresses.
| Whoever had the 'wisdom' to include this in the latest rockfax guidebook, presumably with the idea of increasing traffic, needs to think about things a lot more. The description in the guide and here does not describe the walk in to the sport routes accurately and does nothing to convey the severity of the position. I'm no flake, this has serious trip and fall to some serious injury potential. The guide should do a lot better. Cannot recommend going here unless you have some seriously improved approach beta than what is described here. I also caution anyone that wants to go here that the approach is not comfortable, the base of the crag is dangerous and unstable and someone may get injured going here if they aren't careful. Do not take kids or inexperienced people. bettypastie - 15/Jun/25 |
|
| Nice area with scope for new problems on the hill. fyfee8a - 06/Jul/12 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers fyfee8a and mikedunk