200m, 6 pitches.
Aiguille Croux
6 x 25m pitches upto 4b Fully bolted
1st pitch - 25m up a ramp to the saddle, Follow the ridge for 3 easy pitches. Follow the ridge for the remaining 2 pitches upto 4b . The route finished at a steep wall, it is possible to continue at 4c.
Abseil back down the route as abseils marked in the guides were very difficult to find.
6 x 25m pitches upto 4b Fully bolted
1st pitch - 25m up a ramp to the saddle, Follow the ridge for 3 easy pitches. Follow the ridge for the remaining 2 pitches upto 4b . The route finished at a steep wall, it is possible to continue at 4c.
Abseil back down the route as abseils marked in the guides were very difficult to find.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Keith Lambley | 30 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The UKC description for this route sounds simple but in reality it's a bit more complicated. If you continue to the South Peak (reccomended) you join the Ottoz route for 3 more pitches, 2 of which are well bolted 5b, the 6 pitches of the Cheney route mentioned here I would class as sparsely bolted. The best topo I have seen is in the new Val Veny Granite guide book (copy to view in the Rifugio Monzino). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The UKC description for this route sounds simple but in reality it's a bit more complicated. If you continue to the South Peak (reccomended) you join the Ottoz route for 3 more pitches, 2 of which are well bolted 5b, the 6 pitches of the Cheney route mentioned here I would class as sparsely bolted. The best topo I have seen is in the new Val Veny Granite guide book (copy to view in the Rifugio Monzino). |
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| Keith Lambley | 30 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: For the descent there is an abseil piste down the face starting ~30m climbers left from the finish of the Ottoz route, apart from a rope\sling initial point it's all new double bolt belays linked with stainless steel links. There are 11 of these set at 25m intervals down to the snow patch, after that it's possible to turn skiers right and another 3 new 25m spaced abseil points take you onto the Chatelet Glacier and easily back to the Refugio Monzino, much easier than reversing the approach route. All shown on a topo on the wall in the Refugio Monzino. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: For the descent there is an abseil piste down the face starting ~30m climbers left from the finish of the Ottoz route, apart from a ropesling initial point it's all new double bolt belays linked with stainless steel links. There are 11 of these set at 25m intervals down to the snow patch, after that it's possible to turn skiers right and another 3 new 25m spaced abseil points take you onto the Chatelet Glacier and easily back to the Refugio Monzino, much easier than reversing the approach route. All shown on a topo on the wall in the Refugio Monzino. |
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| Jesse Nagel | 14 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseils on the normal route were easy to find and in good state (July 2022). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Abseils on the normal route were easy to find and in good state (July 2022). |
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| JFT | 10 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is the SW ridge (called Via Cheney in guidebooks) which leads to the the top 2 pitches of Ottoz-Herzeler and the summit which shouldn't be missed! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is the SW ridge (called Via Cheney in guidebooks) which leads to the the top 2 pitches of Ottoz-Herzeler and the summit which shouldn't be missed! |
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| chris smith | 2 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good mountain route easily accessible from the monzino refuge. Abseil back down the route as opposed to abseiling down the normal route as the abseils were not there (or we couldn’t find them, neither could a party the day before). Also no need for crampons as suggested in the guide. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good mountain route easily accessible from the monzino refuge. Abseil back down the route as opposed to abseiling down the normal route as the abseils were not there (or we couldn’t find them, neither could a party the day before). Also no need for crampons as suggested in the guide. |
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