200m, 6 pitches. TD- 5c/5c Oblig. II
good cam protection, bolt belays.
Archetpal granite climbing on perfect rock. Follows the aesthetic line of cracks/chimneys on the right-hand side of the slab on the south face.
P1: 5c, 30m. Lovely crack not bolted to the left of the slab. Bolt belay on the edge of the slab.
P2: 4a, 40m. Follow the ledge rightwards, then arc left to get to the large ledge at the foot of the great slab on the south face.
P3: 5c 40m. Climb the right-hand crack, which becomes a chimney. 2-bolt belay before the roof.
P4: 5c, 45m. Go left round the roof and follow a wide crack. Belay on a wide platform.
P5: 5a, 40m. Climb the runnels/cracks above, crossing from left to right T'es qui toua?, Doux Refuge, Vive la Jeunesse, Insolation and Plombs et Surplombs.
P6: 4b, 25m. Continue straight up to belay on the summit block.
Decent: Abseil down the face.
Georges Bettembourg + 1 1979.
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