II, 170m. One of the best rock climbs in this book, this is a real classic of the area, with a combination of slabby and steep climbing. All the belays are bolted and there is the odd bolt on the bolder sections but you'll need a full rack.Approach - Walk northeast behind the Refuge d'Argentière, across moraines and scree, to the foot of the crag. Approach time is given from the hut, not the Grands Montets lift station.1) 4c, 20m. Climb the flake and slab above to a large ledge.2) 5a, 25m. Follow the slab just to the left of a corner.3) 6a, 30m. Go straight up from the belay and make a few thin moves leftwards to avoid a small roof. Carry on up more easily to a belay in a stunning spot.4) 4c, 30m. Enjoyable slab climbing leads to a small ledge.5) 4c, 25m. Follow the seam out leftwards and then straight up to belay 10m right of South Ridge.6) 5c, 25m. Head out right and then climb straight up the steep slab. Move out right where this becomes vertical and then follow another slab to join South Ridge. 7) 4c, 15m. The final pitch of South Ridge.Descent - Abseil down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Partially bolted slab climbing on perfect red granite.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents