II, 310m. A classic granite climb and one of the first of its genre in the basin. Approach either via snow fields or via the gully above the start of Versant Satanique if dry.
1) 5a, 50m. Climb a line of corners up the steep wall to the left of the gully. Climb left to a large detached flake and climb round it on the right to a belay on a spike.
2) 5a, 45m. Continue up to the top of the spur and follow this to the large chimney fault. Start up this to a belay, passing difficulties on the left.
3) 5b, 45m. Step left from the belay to pass a small roof and continue up the chimney.
4) 5c, 40m. Climb the steepening chimney using the cracks on the left to help. Follow this to a belay on a ledge on the shoulder.
5) 6a, 55m. Continue up the shoulder easily to the bottom of a red corner (option to belay here). Climb the corner and easier ground above to a belay.
6) 5a, 25m. Go round the wall on the right and follow the easiest ground to the top of the first tower. From here descend 10m to get to the base of the next tower.
7) 6a, 45m. Climb steep grooves above the belay passing a small roof and several pitons. This is steep and is common for a bit of 'french free' to be used. Follow further grooves to the top of the second tower. Descend 10m to get to the next pitch.
8) 4c. 25m. Climb down and pass over a block to a corner that is climbed to a belay above.
9) 4c. 45m. Pass along the ridge crest and then climb the steep wall on good flakes.
10) 6a. 30m. Climb a strenuous corner that leads to a bold slab. Follow this to the top of the tower.
Descent - Abseil back down the route (can be slicker to abseil Versant Satanique from the junction). © Rockfax
Robert Mazars, Garston Rebuffat, Paul ette de Cl?ry, Hubert Cretton 29/Jul/1966.
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