II, 185m. An excellent, mid-grade day out in some wonderful alpine scenery. Approach - Walk northeast behind the Refuge d'Argentière, across moraines and scree, to the foot of the crag. Approach time is given from the hut, not the Grands Montets lift station.There is an extra 5m at the foot of the first pitch which is not visible on this1) 5b, 20m. Follow the crack and exit it via a tricky move right and continue to a ledge.2) 5a, 20m. Move up a couple of metres then make a 5m traverse left to climb a crack on the ridge crest which leads to a ledge under a roof.3) 4c, 45m. Go straight up and pass rightwards around a small overhang. Continue up a short corner and climb easy, slabby ground to a large ledge on the ridge crest.4) 3c, 40m. Easy ground on the ridge crest leads to another good ledge.5) 3c, 20m. More easy ground. Pitches 4 and 5 could be linked by a competent team moving together for a few metres.6) 5a, 25m. Climb the superb crack straight above the belay, passing a couple of pegs on the way.7) 4c, 15m. Step right and climb the small rocky pinnacle. Step down off it and then re-climb to the summit of the Génépi.Descent - Abseil down Mort de Rire. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The classic of the sector, pleasing and varied, on a high mountain cliff with just a few pegs but easy to protect. The first two pitches are reasonably sustained at 5a/b. The last two pitches are more impressive than difficult, with a airy « râteau de chèvre”, (flake of rock used for the hands with the feet in opposition.)
From the hut follow the water pipe. Do not go towards the moraine but climb up amongst the boulders, keeping to the left at the end, to reach to foot of the face (to the E of the Aiguille du Refuge).
Start at a crack on the left of the face , directly beneath a little overhang.
P1 40m 5a crack, 1 move of 5b to get past the corner (to the right), belay on a ledge
P2 40m 4c traverse 5 à 6m to the left then climb a crack, 5a, belay on a terrace under a roof
P3 40m 4c, Go 2 m to the right then straight up, (passing to the right of the overhang), belay on a ledge
P4 >50m 3, easy steps, belay on a ledge behind a large boulder ; junction with the route "Un éclat de rire"
P5 50m 5a the obvious crack, airy, possible belay at mid height (2 pegs), otherwise bolt belay on a ledge
P6 20m 4a Hand traverse the flake (« râteau de chèvre”), get behind it and descend to a ledge and belay
• Abseil 25m on the N side to a gap, then by the ledges on the side facing the Améthystes to regain the foot of the face.
• Escape possible from the 6th belay by 2 abseils down the E face, then ledges. This brings you down, 10m to the right of the start.
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