Rockfax Description
II, 275m. One of the best mid grade crack routes of the massif up superb orange granite. A large cam can be useful.

1) 6b, 40m. Follow broken ledges up until a slab leads out left to a platform.
2) 6a+, 40m. Head out right from the platform and climb cracks, passing the roofs on the right. The next belay is above the second roof on a single bolt (and cam placements).
3) 5c, 30m. Follow flakes above the belay, up and left until below a corner.
4) 6a+, 45m. Climb the corner.
5) 6b, 40m. Climb the cracks on the right until below the large flake. Climb round this on the left and follow the crack to a belay.
6) 6b+, 25m. Keep following the fantastic crack until a step right at a bolt gives access to another a crack system. This leads to a belay on a ledge.
7) 6b, 45m. Step right and follow more great crack systems to the ridge.
Descent - Abseil back down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fairly obvious after the first pitch. The topo in the Batoux is a little vague for the start, best try to check out the line drawing in the old Piola hard back.But if all else fails, just try to get to the first bolt belay above the overhangs as the quality just gets better the higher you get!

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alpine Dreamz , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.

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