350m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 350m. A staggeringly good route which is a dream for lovers of technical, slabby terrain. There is the odd steep section too, but overall this is more about slabs, cracks and friction climbing. Scramble up broken ledges to the first belay.

1) 5b. Climb up and left across a ledge system to belay below and left of a corner.
2) 6b+. Climb the thin slab diagonally up and left and then follow a thin crack to belay beneath another corner.
3) 6a+. Follow the corner and step left out of it.
4) 6c+. Traverse out right to the superb steep crack. Climb this past a small roof to easier ground leading to the belay.
5) 6b. Follow the superb hand-crack diagonally up and left and then stay with it as it bends back right.
6) 4b. A welcome break! Scramble across easy ledges to a belay on the left, at the bottom of a cracked slab.
7) 6b. Climb fantastic thin cracks up the slabs and left to belay in the middle of a huge slab.
8) 6a. Climb the corner above and right for 30m, then move right to a belay on a narrow ledge beneath a thin-looking slab.
9) 6c+. Looks are not deceptive on this occasion - the slab is incredibly thin and technical. There are some bolts but this is still a tough pitch that feels bold. It was originally graded 6b, which gives you some idea of Piola's slab climbing prowess.
10) 6c. Traverse up and right and then follow a crack to a hanging belay beneath a small roof.
11) 6c+. Traverse out right under the roof and then climb the sustained crack above.
12) 6a. Move right off the belay and follow a brilliant hand-crack to the Blaitière's mid-height ledge system.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
ED. 6c (obl 6b) Well eqipped with bolt belays, bolts and the odd chipped hold.

Michel Piola.


Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alpine Dreamz


User Date Notes
Kris 2 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Consistent beautiful climbing, even the easier pitches require effort. Not many bolts on the route, only where needed!
Show beta
βeta: Consistent beautiful climbing, even the easier pitches require effort. Not many bolts on the route, only where needed!

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Guidebooks for Aiguille de Blaitière

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High ED3
Mid ED3
Low ED3
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
California Dream

Grade: ED2 7a ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)

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