UKC

350m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 350m. A staggeringly good route which is a dream for lovers of technical, slabby terrain. There is the odd steep section too, but overall this is more about slabs, cracks and friction climbing. Scramble up broken ledges to reach the first belay.
1) 5b. Climb up and left across a ledge system to belay below and left of a corner.
2) 6b+. Climb the thin slab diagonally up and left and then follow a thin crack to belay beneath another corner.
3) 6a+. Follow the corner and step left out of it.
4) 6c+. Traverse out right to the superb steep crack. Climb this past a small roof to easier ground leading to the belay.
5) 6b. Follow the superb hand-crack diagonally up and left and then stay with it as it bends back right.
6) 4b. A welcome break! Scramble across easy ledges.
7) 6b. Climb fantastic thin cracks up and left to belay in the middle of a huge slab.
8) 6a. Climb the corner above and right for 30m, then move right to a belay on a narrow ledge beneath a thin-looking slab.
9) 6c+. Looks are not deceptive on this occasion - the slab is incredibly thin and technical. There are some bolts but this is still a tough pitch that feels bold. It was originally graded 6b, which gives you some idea of Piola's slab climbing prowess.
10) 6c. Traverse up and right and then follow a crack to a hanging belay beneath a small roof.
11) 6c+. Traverse out right under the roof and then climb the sustained crack above.
12) 6a. Move right off the belay and follow a brilliant hand-crack to the Blaitière's mid-height ledge system.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
ED. 6c (obl 6b) Well eqipped with bolt belays, bolts and the odd chipped hold.

Michel Piola.

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Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alpine Dreamz

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User Date Notes
Kris 2 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Consistent beautiful climbing, even the easier pitches require effort. Not many bolts on the route, only where needed!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Consistent beautiful climbing, even the easier pitches require effort. Not many bolts on the route, only where needed!

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Repeated
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Route of Interest
California Dream

Grade: ED2 7a ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)

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