II, 210m. One of the most popular routes on the pillar. 1) 6b. Climb the bolt-protected slab, split by a thin seam.2) 6a. Go up the right-leaning thin crack above the belay. Make a thin move out right at the top of this to gain a corner-crack. Follow this and exit it rightwards.3) 6a. Head up the slab right of the belay and then climb superb twin cracks above.4) 5c. Cross easy ground rightwards to reach a series of flakes. Climb these, drifting gradually left, to an exposed stance on a slab to the left.5) 6b. Climb the tricky slab above the belay and move right to pass through a small overhang via a few steep crack moves. Continue more easily up a crack and corner.6) 6a+. Go straight up above the belay to reach a crack that finds a way between a large overhang on the right and a smaller one on the left. Follow the crack to a stunning and exposed corner and climb this to a belay beneath a wide crack. A mind-blowing pitch.7) 6a+. Climb the wide crack and exit right. There are bolts to protect the crack, but a large cam will come in handy.8) 5b. Step right and climb easier ground to belay beneath the Red Pillar's summit tower.Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Cruxes on first and fifth pitches are slab move protected (and aidable) by a bolt in each case.
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