Rockfax Description
II, 210m. One of the most popular routes on the pillar.
1) 6b. Climb the bolt-protected slab, split by a thin seam.
2) 6a. Go up the right-leaning thin crack above the belay. Make a thin move out right at the top of this to gain a corner-crack. Follow this and exit it rightwards.
3) 6a. Head up the slab right of the belay and then climb superb twin cracks above.
4) 5c. Cross easy ground rightwards to reach a series of flakes. Climb these, drifting gradually left, to an exposed stance on a slab to the left.
5) 6b. Climb the tricky slab above the belay and move right to pass through a small overhang via a few steep crack moves. Continue more easily up a crack and corner.
6) 6a+. Go straight up above the belay to reach a crack that finds a way between a large overhang on the right and a smaller one on the left. Follow the crack to a stunning and exposed corner and climb this to a belay beneath a wide crack. A mind-blowing pitch.
7) 6a+. Climb the wide crack and exit right. There are bolts to protect the crack, but a large cam will come in handy.
8) 5b. Step right and climb easier ground to belay beneath the Red Pillar's summit tower.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cruxes on first and fifth pitches are slab move protected (and aidable) by a bolt in each case.

Piola/Steiner Aug/1985.


Parois-de-legende , Euro Alpine Rock , Alpine Dreamz


User Date Notes
Sidewalk Aug, 1987 Show βeta
βeta: Memorable sunny day out whilst camping at the Plan. Remember P2 was quite pumpy.
Show beta
βeta: Memorable sunny day out whilst camping at the Plan. Remember P2 was quite pumpy.

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High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 4
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: TD+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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