II, 210m. One of the most popular routes on the pillar with some thin slab moves that can be easily aided if needed. 1) 6c. Start 6m right of a V-corner at the left side of the slab, above a large flake and below a small inverted-V overlap. Climb the thin crack/seam (bolts) straight up to a good belay ledge.2) 6a. Go up the right-leaning thin crack above the belay. Make a thin move out right at the top of this to gain a corner-crack. Follow this and exit it rightwards.3) 6a. Head up the slab right of the belay and then climb superb twin cracks above.4) 5c. Climb easily up and right to a ledge at 3m then climb the slightly leftward trending flake crack to gain several cracks and then a hanging belay on a small foothold.5) 6b+. Climb the tricky slab via some sloping holds left of the bolts and move right to pass through a small overhang via a few steep crack moves. Continue more easily up a crack and corner.6) 6a+. Go straight up a short corner to reach a crack on the left that finds a way between overhangs. Follow the crack to a stunning layback corner and climb this to a belay beneath a wide crack. A mind-blowing pitch.7) 6a+. Climb the wide crack and after the bolt elegantly exit right via some brilliant layback moves.8) 5b. Step right (bolt) and climb easier but dirty ground to belay beneath the Red Pillar's summit tower.Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Cruxes on first and fifth pitches are slab move protected (and aidable) by a bolt in each case.
Euro Alpine Rock
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Grade: TD+ 6b ***
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