UKC

250m.

Rockfax Description
II, 210m. One of the most popular routes on the pillar with some thin slab moves that can be easily aided if needed.
1) 6c. Start 6m right of a V-corner at the left side of the slab, above a large flake and below a small inverted-V overlap. Climb the thin crack/seam (bolts) straight up to a good belay ledge.
2) 6a. Go up the right-leaning thin crack above the belay. Make a thin move out right at the top of this to gain a corner-crack. Follow this and exit it rightwards.
3) 6a. Head up the slab right of the belay and then climb superb twin cracks above.
4) 5c. Climb easily up and right to a ledge at 3m then climb the slightly leftward trending flake crack to gain several cracks and then a hanging belay on a small foothold.
5) 6b+. Climb the tricky slab via some sloping holds left of the bolts and move right to pass through a small overhang via a few steep crack moves. Continue more easily up a crack and corner.
6) 6a+. Go straight up a short corner to reach a crack on the left that finds a way between overhangs. Follow the crack to a stunning layback corner and climb this to a belay beneath a wide crack. A mind-blowing pitch.
7) 6a+. Climb the wide crack and after the bolt elegantly exit right via some brilliant layback moves.
8) 5b. Step right (bolt) and climb easier but dirty ground to belay beneath the Red Pillar's summit tower.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cruxes on first and fifth pitches are slab move protected (and aidable) by a bolt in each case.

Piola/Steiner Aug/1985.

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende , Euro Alpine Rock , Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sidewalk Aug, 1987 Show βeta
βeta: Memorable sunny day out whilst camping at the Plan. Remember P2 was quite pumpy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Memorable sunny day out whilst camping at the Plan. Remember P2 was quite pumpy.

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 4
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune

Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Aiguille du Peigne)

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