Rockfax Description
II, 210m. One of the most popular routes on the pillar.
1) 6b. Climb the bolt-protected slab, split by a thin seam.
2) 6a. Go up the right-leaning thin crack above the belay. Make a thin move out right at the top of this to gain a corner-crack. Follow this and exit it rightwards.
3) 6a. Head up the slab right of the belay and then climb superb twin cracks above.
4) 5c. Cross easy ground rightwards to reach a series of flakes. Climb these, drifting gradually left, to an exposed stance on a slab to the left.
5) 6b. Climb the tricky slab above the belay and move right to pass through a small overhang via a few steep crack moves. Continue more easily up a crack and corner.
6) 6a+. Go straight up above the belay to reach a crack that finds a way between a large overhang on the right and a smaller one on the left. Follow the crack to a stunning and exposed corner and climb this to a belay beneath a wide crack. A mind-blowing pitch.
7) 6a+. Climb the wide crack and exit right. There are bolts to protect the crack, but a large cam will come in handy.
8) 5b. Step right and climb easier ground to belay beneath the Red Pillar's summit tower.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cruxes on first and fifth pitches are slab move protected (and aidable) by a bolt in each case.

Piola/Steiner Aug/1985.

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende , Euro Alpine Rock , Alpine Dreamz

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