Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A good route which is a good test for your chimneying and thrutching skills. Be aware that the line follows a series of big chimneys so it doesn't quite get as much sun as some of its neighbours.
The route starts at the highest point of the ledge system, at the foot of the Red Pillar routes.
1) 5b. Climb a cracked slab and the corner above.
2) 5c. Head up the short but excellent corner and move right to belay beneath another corner system.
3) 6a+. Make some tough moves off the belay and then follow the corner more easily.
4) 5c. Climb the corner then chimney. Exiting left.
5) 5c. Straight up the gully to the top.
Descent - Abseil down Majorette Thatcher. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Slab- F5+, Jamming F5+, beautiful Corner stemming F6a+, Offwidth into bold thrutch F6a, Top out F5+. Rappel for the Majorette or head left to the Matubu Rap.

Rus/Strappazzon Sep/1985.


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High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: TD ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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