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180m.

Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A great crack climb, with an equally good name.
1) 6a. Climb a series of flakes and cracks leftwards and then back right to belay just beneath a roof.
2) 6b+. Make a stiff pull through the roof then climb easier flakes to belay beneath some wide cracks.
3) 6b. Climb the wide cracks and step right to an exposed stance.
4) 6b. Step left and climb the wide off-width crack that leads out left across an exposed hanging slab.
5) 6a. Step left from the belay and head up a narrowing crack a couple of metres left of the ridge crest directly above the stance. Be careful not to go too far left and stray onto the final chimney pitch of Les Diamants du Président.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
F6a+, F6b+ (roof crux), F6a, F5+, F5+.

Piola/Steiner Jul/1984.

Ticklists

Euro Alpine Rock, Alpine Dreamz

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User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 20 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P4 felt a tad committing. P5 felt more like 6b
 
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P4 felt a tad committing. P5 felt more like 6b
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
benji landau 9 Aug, 2019 -
with Dan Dan
with Dan Dan
adoran 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S Great route, led 3 & 4
with Dan Shaffrey, Seán Fortune
Great route, led 3 & 4
with Dan Shaffrey, Seán Fortune
Seán Fortune u 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd Mad crack climbing, get on it! last pitch not much easier than the 2 before, definitely not 6a! Solid intro to the Alps for Dan.
Mad crack climbing, get on it! last pitch not much easier than the 2 before, definitely not 6a! Solid intro to the Alps for Dan.
Hidden 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd
Kike Kikon 16 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S Led all pitches, needed a wee rest at the bolt on P5 (was knackered) Beautiful route. Avec Elsa
Led all pitches, needed a wee rest at the bolt on P5 (was knackered) Beautiful route. Avec Elsa
Adam Coles 3 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
Rossco-p 26 Jun, 2019 2nd O/S
with Paul Swail , kp1
with Paul Swail , kp1
Hidden 26 Jun, 2019 2nd O/S
CharleyAnn 25 Jun, 2019 2nd Found this route pretty hard. Maybe the guy leading right below my feet was a little off putting too. Aided a little.
Found this route pretty hard. Maybe the guy leading right below my feet was a little off putting too. Aided a little.
robgixer 25 Jun, 2019 Lead dog Amazing route, sustained cracks all the way. Rested going through the roof and found the last pitch just as hard. Clean on the wide crack. Rock fax grades are a bit out, Cham supercracks gives the route 6C. Probably E3 6a.
Amazing route, sustained cracks all the way. Rested going through the roof and found the last pitch just as hard. Clean on the wide crack. Rock fax grades are a bit out, Cham supercracks gives the route 6C. Probably E3 6a.
Hidden ? Sep, 2018 AltLd
08nbrierley 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd dog Lead pitch 3. Fell on pitch 2 and 5.
with matt, Jack
Lead pitch 3. Fell on pitch 2 and 5.
with matt, Jack
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 -
Hidden 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Tom Seccombe 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Alex
with Alex
soph 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p1,3,5
with Ben Heason
Led p1,3,5
with Ben Heason
QuentinSu 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd
LucaC 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead the crux roof p2 and p4 monster crack..
with Bede
Lead the crux roof p2 and p4 monster crack..
with Bede
George Ponsonby 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd dog Aided through the roof section as it was soaking wet
Aided through the roof section as it was soaking wet
Michael Chan 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf Started super late. Got benighted. Missed the last pitch. Offwidth memorable. Shouldn't have left the size 4 at home. Pitch 2 roof protected by an insitu nut and thread.
with Ewa
Started super late. Got benighted. Missed the last pitch. Offwidth memorable. Shouldn't have left the size 4 at home. Pitch 2 roof protected by an insitu nut and thread.
with Ewa
Hidden 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt
DaveThexton 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Matt Groom
with Matt Groom
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 23 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
seanhendo123 1 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Clean apart from crux roof.....didn't do last pitch as an impending thunderstorm was approaching. Great route
Clean apart from crux roof.....didn't do last pitch as an impending thunderstorm was approaching. Great route
Hugh Irving 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Rough rock, thrutchy shenanigans, deadhangs off fist jams. What more could you want? A big cam, that's what.
Rough rock, thrutchy shenanigans, deadhangs off fist jams. What more could you want? A big cam, that's what.
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
Hidden 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Shea 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd Fell off the roof crux after going wrong handed. The rest clean. Awesome route, especially if you like cracks. P3 the best.
with Luke Davis, freja
Fell off the roof crux after going wrong handed. The rest clean. Awesome route, especially if you like cracks. P3 the best.
with Luke Davis, freja
lukas_s 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Cracks all the way...the grades are again just all over the place, the last 6a pitch felt by far the hardest to me. Superb!
Cracks all the way...the grades are again just all over the place, the last 6a pitch felt by far the hardest to me. Superb!
Bernie L 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd G/U slipped on the 6b+ roof pitch after placing gear. Was a bit nervous as it was the first pitch with my heavily taped up big toe due to flapper. but pulled on again and climbed that pitch almost ground up i.e. from the jugs before roof. Other pitches os
with Lukas S
slipped on the 6b+ roof pitch after placing gear. Was a bit nervous as it was the first pitch with my heavily taped up big toe due to flapper. but pulled on again and climbed that pitch almost ground up i.e. from the jugs before roof. Other pitches os
with Lukas S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2017 2nd
Hidden 29 May, 2017 AltLd RP
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 20 Jul, 2016 Lead
GeorgT 14 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S absolutely nails for someone who can neither jam or granite climb well (Yet!)
with john roberts
absolutely nails for someone who can neither jam or granite climb well (Yet!)
with john roberts
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
walts4 ??, 2016 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd
saaruli 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd I lead the 1st pitch and Erik the rest. Everything else went clean except the crux and the OW.
with erik..
I lead the 1st pitch and Erik the rest. Everything else went clean except the crux and the OW.
with erik..
Hidden 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 17 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Sandy led P1. I did the roof crux and all the rest. Sorry for the sandbag Sandy... My own opinion on the grades: P1. Fr6a/+ P2. Fr6b+ (very cruxy, but not sustained - Fr6a+/b for the rest of the pitch) P3. Fr6a+ P4. Fr6b (not 5+ in a month of Sundays, and I can do wide cracks) P5. Fr6b+ Easily as hard as the bottom crux. We climbed a narrow crack, widening to wide crack up and slightly right of the final belay. Sustained. Both the piola and A.N. other topo we had (not sure its origin) showed the final pitch a little left, so maybe this is a new final pitch? Anyway - really good climb. Pitch 2 after the crux and pitch 3 are both stunning hand jam pitches.
with Sandy Simpson
Sandy led P1. I did the roof crux and all the rest. Sorry for the sandbag Sandy... My own opinion on the grades: P1. Fr6a/+ P2. Fr6b+ (very cruxy, but not sustained - Fr6a+/b for the rest of the pitch) P3. Fr6a+ P4. Fr6b (not 5+ in a month of Sundays, and I can do wide cracks) P5. Fr6b+ Easily as hard as the bottom crux. We climbed a narrow crack, widening to wide crack up and slightly right of the final belay. Sustained. Both the piola and A.N. other topo we had (not sure its origin) showed the final pitch a little left, so maybe this is a new final pitch? Anyway - really good climb. Pitch 2 after the crux and pitch 3 are both stunning hand jam pitches.
with Sandy Simpson
Kris ? Aug, 2013 AltLd
AnnaBacklund ? Jul, 2013 2nd
roberto18 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd Good honest hard work!
Good honest hard work!
Hidden 7 Sep, 2012 AltLd dog
Hidden 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf
stratfol 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd dog climbed all but top pitch due to weather coming in. Aided the first roof.
with Sergey Gitlin
climbed all but top pitch due to weather coming in. Aided the first roof.
with Sergey Gitlin
alkira ??, 2011 -
chris m fisher 10 Aug, 2010 Lead With a cheeky rest at the roof!
with Graham
With a cheeky rest at the roof!
with Graham
Franco Cookson 9 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Free. Ace crux pitch with nice jamming- harder F6b. Didn't do the last pitch as the sun came round as we had walked from the valley that day.
Free. Ace crux pitch with nice jamming- harder F6b. Didn't do the last pitch as the sun came round as we had walked from the valley that day.
Dave Warburton 9 Jul, 2010 AltLd Walked up from the Valley that day, climbed the route until the heat became unbareable; rapping off to avoid the heat before last pitch. Great climbing, first pitch was tricky and the roof hard too. Brilliant Jamming.
Walked up from the Valley that day, climbed the route until the heat became unbareable; rapping off to avoid the heat before last pitch. Great climbing, first pitch was tricky and the roof hard too. Brilliant Jamming.
felixthelion 5 Aug, 2008 AltLd Brilliant climbing. Jamming and laybacking galore. sustained. Took a few tries to work out the sequence through the roof which was tiring on lead. Glad i did it free. Absolutely no way this is E1. Definitely E2 with a number of moves of 5c. The AC guide gives VII for the crux pitch and there are a couple of pitches at VI+. Definitely want to go back and do this one again. absolutely fantastic.
Brilliant climbing. Jamming and laybacking galore. sustained. Took a few tries to work out the sequence through the roof which was tiring on lead. Glad i did it free. Absolutely no way this is E1. Definitely E2 with a number of moves of 5c. The AC guide gives VII for the crux pitch and there are a couple of pitches at VI+. Definitely want to go back and do this one again. absolutely fantastic.
tommytuffa 5 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
lukehunt ? Aug, 2008 AltLd Amazing route - quite sustained and at least E2
with Ian Jackson
Amazing route - quite sustained and at least E2
with Ian Jackson
Grezza ? Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S tough low down; easier towards the top
with Paul E
tough low down; easier towards the top
with Paul E
Hidden 8 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ? Jul, 2001 AltLd
uphillnow ? Sep, 1991 AltLd Mark lead the hard pitch. So cold, couldnt believe it was only the start of September
with Mark Gray
Mark lead the hard pitch. So cold, couldnt believe it was only the start of September
with Mark Gray
crossleysm ??, 1991 AltLd With Joe
With Joe
michael burrows 30 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S did not do the last 2 pitches, excellent and sustained climbing with a hard roof problem and a lot of hand jamming
with steve williams
did not do the last 2 pitches, excellent and sustained climbing with a hard roof problem and a lot of hand jamming
with steve williams
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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ex-Libris

Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)