UKC

180m.

Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A great crack climb, with an equally good name.
1) 6a. Climb a series of flakes and cracks leftwards and then back right to belay just beneath a roof.
2) 6b+. Make a stiff pull through the roof then climb easier flakes to belay beneath some wide cracks.
3) 6b. Climb the wide cracks and step right to an exposed stance.
4) 6b. Step left and climb the wide off-width crack that leads out left across an exposed hanging slab.
5) 6a. Step left from the belay and head up a narrowing crack a couple of metres left of the ridge crest directly above the stance. Be careful not to go too far left and stray onto the final chimney pitch of Les Diamants du Président.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
F6a+, F6b+ (roof crux), F6a, F5+, F5+.

Piola/Steiner Jul/1984.

Ticklists

Euro Alpine Rock , Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 20 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P4 felt a tad committing. P5 felt more like 6b
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P4 felt a tad committing. P5 felt more like 6b

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
South Diedre

Grade: TD+ ***
(Grandes Jorasses)

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