Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A great crack climb, with an equally good name. Beware a similar looking route 10m right of Majorette Thatcher that is actually a fair bit harder.
1) 6a. Start 3m left of a large (2m high) flake against the crag, underneath an inverted-V roof at 20m. Climb cracks and flakes up and slightly left to gain a slim right-facing groove. Follow this for 5m until more cracks and flakes lead slightly back rightwards to a hanging belay on bolts 2m under the inverted-V roof.
2) 6b+. Gain the roof awkwardly off the belay then jam through it to a rest and a bolt. Step left and follow the fantastic crack to a good belay stance beneath some wider cracks.
3) 6b. Climb wide cracks and step right to an exposed stance.
4) 6b. Climb the wide crack on the left for 20m, then step left and follow the wide crack for another 20m - 2 bolts. Belay just round to the left in a comfortable notch.
5) 6b. Climb the corner crack directly above the belay and 1m left of the arete. This starts easily but turns to a bridging pod, which gives access to the arete itself and easier ground.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
F6a+, F6b+ (roof crux), F6a, F5+, F5+.

Piola/Steiner Jul/1984.


Euro Alpine Rock , Alpine Dreamz


User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 20 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P4 felt a tad committing. P5 felt more like 6b
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P4 felt a tad committing. P5 felt more like 6b

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Guidebooks for Aiguille de Blaitière

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High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Macho Couloir (Direct Finish)

Grade: TD+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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