II, 170m. A great crack climb, with an equally good name. Beware a similar looking route 10m right of Majorette Thatcher that is actually a fair bit harder.
1) 6a. Start 3m left of a large (2m high) flake against the crag, underneath an inverted-V roof at 20m. Climb cracks and flakes up and slightly left to gain a slim right-facing groove. Follow this for 5m until more cracks and flakes lead slightly back rightwards to a hanging belay on bolts 2m under the inverted-V roof.
2) 6b+. Gain the roof awkwardly off the belay then jam through it to a rest and a bolt. Step left and follow the fantastic crack to a good belay stance beneath some wider cracks.
3) 6b. Climb wide cracks and step right to an exposed stance.
4) 6b. Climb the wide crack on the left for 20m, then step left and follow the wide crack for another 20m - 2 bolts. Belay just round to the left in a comfortable notch.
5) 6b. Climb the corner crack directly above the belay and 1m left of the arete. This starts easily but turns to a bridging pod, which gives access to the arete itself and easier ground.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
F6a+, F6b+ (roof crux), F6a, F5+, F5+.
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