200m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A cracking little route, which packs quite a punch in places. Start just to the left of a prominent pillar.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb a blocky groove up and left to a good ledge.
2) 4c, 25m. Step back right and continue up the groove to the top of the pillar.
3) 5c, 20m. Head boldly up the left-hand side of the huge and seemingly detached flake at the top of the pillar. Then step left into an excellent, steep corner-crack and follow this to a ledge.
4) 5b, 20m. Climb the excellent twin cracks above and continue up a corner.
5) 5c, 20m. Head up the steep cracks, go through a small roof and then step left to belay beneath the crux pitch.
6) 6b, 30m. A tough pitch which is often greasy long after precipitation; if you pull on one of the many pegs around here you wouldn't be the first climber to do so! Climb the corner above and right of the belay and then the thin jamming crack.
7) 5b, 30m. Move left into a corner system and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
UIAA VI+ (the Piola guide gives the crux pitch French 6a/b). Some in situ aid. Harder and more sustained than the Voie Couzy.

J and S Menegaux and J Poullain Aug/1948.


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range


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High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 3
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Punnta Gugliermina SW Face Gervasutti

Grade: TD+ ***
(Mont Blanc)

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