Rockfax Description
III, 600m, 6 - 7 hours. A stunning and logical line, this is one of the best granite ridges in the massif. The lower section is an amazing journey around and over some beautiful towers. We've provided a lengthy route description, but much of the terrain is quite intuitive and feels logical throughout. The only odd thing about the route is the fact that it is so quiet.

1) 4a. Climb a gully (3c) to a notch with a distinctive thin tooth marking it. Traverse for 10m on the right of the ridge and then climb a short chimney (4a) to gain the crest.
2) 4b. Traverse across a slab and then climb a chimney (4b) to the crest. Stay on this for 100m to the foot of a round pinnacle. Move onto the left of the ridge and climb a crack (with a distinctive jammed block in it) to come out just past the pinnacle. Continue on the right of the crest, across a featured slab, and gradually descend until underneath a notch.
3) 4c. Climb up to the notch on the left side (4c).Stay just on the left of the crest to go around one pinnacle and then come back onto the right of the ridge. Pass a second pinnacle to arrive at a small notch overlooking a deep gully to the left of the ridge.
4) 4c. Make a 25m abseil from a fixed anchor down the left-hand side of the ridge. (There are bolted anchors on the right-hand side of this section of the ridge as well. These look tempting but actually form the start of an abseil line which is irreversible. If you abseil from these you will be forced to abandon the climb!) Follow a ledge and then gully easily for 60m to a chimney (4c) which takes you back onto the ridge crest through an opening.
5) 4b. Follow the ridge to a large pinnacle and move left around it on a ledge system. Climb another chimney (4b) to regain the crest. Follow the crest (dropping off left and right occasionally to avoid anything too tricky looking) to a wide, low-angled gully on the left of the ridge crest.
6) Fire up the gully easily for 50m to meet the South Ridge.
7) 5c. Finish up the South Ridge sections 3) to 8). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An established classic giving a long and sustained outing on excellent granite. The climbing, on open faces and cracks, is more delicate than strenuous and very well protected. Highly recomended, especially to the more experienced route-finder. 7hr from hut.

Birkenmajor, Bujak, Chwacsinki + Ostrowski 13/Aug/1932.


ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Progression , Alps 2023 , Chamonix 2023


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High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 2
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Papillons ArĂȘte

Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Aiguille du Peigne)

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