II, 200m, 1 - 2 hours. From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux. Descend west to the foot of the route. Cross the bergschrund at its narrowest point (normally midway along its length, can be difficult in late summer) and climb the 50 degree snow slope, which is difficult to protect. The face splits to go around a rock buttress - climb the right-hand gully, the difficulty varies greatly with conditions (usually around Scottish III) with some rock protection available. When completely dry it is loose and should be avoided by traversing left into a wide, snowy gully which is followed to rejoin the main route. Crest the ridge to join the Northwest Face route. Descend by the East Face. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the Turino hut, head down the glacier, go around the lip of Aiguille de Toule, cross over the large bergschrund and head straight up the north face.
The route sits at 65 degrees, head around the rock outcrop to the right and summit.
head down the east face
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