UKC

Rockfax Description
I, 200m, 3 - 4 hours. This popular traverse has easy access. Start from the Col d'Entréves.
1) 4b. From the col, follow the ridge over easy but occasionally loose ground. Take care - only the actual line is solid, and moving even a metre either way can take you into some horribly loose ground. Turn any obstacles on the right, until you reach a flat, 10m section of ridge with an extremely thin and sharp tooth at the far end. Climb the crest of the ridge (exposed) to the foot of the tooth and then downclimb (4b) or abseil down the chimney below.
2) Step left into a steep, short chimney (useful footholds on the right wall) and climb this to rejoin the ridge. Stay on the crest on excellent rock passing two bolted belays. After 50m of traversing the ridge begins to steepen again. Climb initially on the left-hand side of the ridge before reaching a seemingly blank wall with two bolts at the bottom.
3) 4c/A0 (or 5b). Step right to climb the tough but brief corner, with or without the help of the sling (5b if done free). Continue along the ridge crest for 10m more to reach the summit.
4) Downclimb a short, slabby crack for 5m from the summit to reach a bolt on the left (facing in). It is possible to do a 30m abseil from the bolt, and then another 30m from a lower bolt, but the abseils are awkward and downclimbing may be easier.
5) 3b. Where the ridge flattens out, follow the crest over easy, broken ground until the ridge begins to ascend briefly. The final tower can be turned on either side but the right is slightly easier (3b). From the far side of this, continue to the end of the ridge and then drop off rightwards to reach the glacier. It is also possible to make a short abseil left after the final tower in order to reach the glacier © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , Intro to Alpine , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alps 2023 , Chamonix 2023 , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine , TM Alps , Big Ideas , Neonatal Alpinist 2023 , Alpine Peaks and routes , Fredventures Alps 24 , Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomlake 6 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Descent described in Rockfax currently near impossible to navigate due to crevasses. Would recommend reversing ridge from Entreve summit or abbing from summit anchors (lengths & subsequent anchors unknown)
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βeta: Descent described in Rockfax currently near impossible to navigate due to crevasses. Would recommend reversing ridge from Entreve summit or abbing from summit anchors (lengths & subsequent anchors unknown)
jonzza 11 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The first ab station after the highest point on the ridge (on your left) drops you straight off the north side and is not the one you want to take. 5m further along the ridge is the first of the abseils that continues you along the route. Also didn't find the abs to be as awkward as rockfax makes out.
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βeta: The first ab station after the highest point on the ridge (on your left) drops you straight off the north side and is not the one you want to take. 5m further along the ridge is the first of the abseils that continues you along the route. Also didn't find the abs to be as awkward as rockfax makes out.
Tall Oak 22 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really cool route and actually in season when taking it on. The views from the top of and into Italy were unique and different from the Chamonix experience. Nothing massively technical on the approach or route. Very fun day out.
βeta?
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βeta: Really cool route and actually in season when taking it on. The views from the top of and into Italy were unique and different from the Chamonix experience. Nothing massively technical on the approach or route. Very fun day out.
JohnBson 18 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As TomGB says. Abb off before the downclimb and aim to hit the crest of the icy ridge which runs from the bergschrund to the final peak of the ridge. Follow the bergschrund and jump across a gap approx 1m wide! This is a very dry season.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As TomGB says. Abb off before the downclimb and aim to hit the crest of the icy ridge which runs from the bergschrund to the final peak of the ridge. Follow the bergschrund and jump across a gap approx 1m wide! This is a very dry season.
TomGB 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely don't go all the way to the end of the ridge and then try to get back across to the glacier. You have to cross horrendous gravel/ice/choss that was by far the spiciest part of the day. Make sure you ab down the left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely don't go all the way to the end of the ridge and then try to get back across to the glacier. You have to cross horrendous gravel/ice/choss that was by far the spiciest part of the day. Make sure you ab down the left

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