120m, 5 pitches.
Fantastic granite slab climbing. The route has been partially re-equipped by Pascal Junique.
Scramble up (3c with 2 bolts) and walk across a grassy ledge to gain the left arete of the south face slab. The first pitch climbs the arete to a ledge and is shared with Vertige de L'Oubli (AKA Voie Détrie-Junique). From the 1st belay, Vertige de L'Oubli is the leftmost line of bolts and takes the arete whilst Les Petits Tucs is the line to the right of this and takes the slab.
6a+, 7b, 6b, 6b, 5c
Scramble up (3c with 2 bolts) and walk across a grassy ledge to gain the left arete of the south face slab. The first pitch climbs the arete to a ledge and is shared with Vertige de L'Oubli (AKA Voie Détrie-Junique). From the 1st belay, Vertige de L'Oubli is the leftmost line of bolts and takes the arete whilst Les Petits Tucs is the line to the right of this and takes the slab.
6a+, 7b, 6b, 6b, 5c
Pierre Schram & Thierry Volpiatto 1982.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tomkim | 25 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: On the crux pitch, there is around 10m between the last bolt and the belay. There is a good peg in a crack midway between these two which is a bit difficult to spot from the last bolt. The climbing through this section felt about 6b to me. Some less than ideal cam placements can be found to ease the nerves (0.4 and 0.5). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: On the crux pitch, there is around 10m between the last bolt and the belay. There is a good peg in a crack midway between these two which is a bit difficult to spot from the last bolt. The climbing through this section felt about 6b to me. Some less than ideal cam placements can be found to ease the nerves (0.4 and 0.5). |
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Route of Interest
Hutus Ou Rien L1
Grade: 7b ***
(Pierrot Beach)