UKC

450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further right to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to right-hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge left and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on left (easy) for 50m then step up and right to belay (55m pitch). Traverse right slightly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse right for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay left for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and right back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on left: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top.
Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.

L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937.

Ticklists

Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!) , The Big Easys , Top quality Alps under 4000m

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User Date Notes
Annaproffitt 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The couloir pitch is longer than you think- ended up going around 50m up to a 2 piton belay on a nice ledge then back tracking slightly over flakes to the overhanging bludge pitch. It is possible to step around the arete from that pitches belay and go up the south face slab at around a 6a/6a+ with run out hard first moves.
βeta?
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βeta: The couloir pitch is longer than you think- ended up going around 50m up to a 2 piton belay on a nice ledge then back tracking slightly over flakes to the overhanging bludge pitch. It is possible to step around the arete from that pitches belay and go up the south face slab at around a 6a/6a+ with run out hard first moves.

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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pilier Candau

Grade: D+ ***
(Tête de la Gandolière)

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