III, 1000m, 4 - 5 hours. A long route which, in good conditions, gives the full North Face experience without any tough climbing. However, the route can be hard when thin or if the snow is not well frozen so finding out current conditions is strongly advised. Often climbed by people going to do the Direct but finding conditions aren't in.1) Follow the couloir up 45 degree snow for 300m.2) Branch off left and climb low-angled snowy mixed ground (hard when dry) to reach a 50 degree snow couloir.3) Follow this to the 'demi-lune' where the route joins the Mallory-Porter.4) (As for the Mallory-Porter). Climb up the upper snowfield before making a long traverse leftwards to reach the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge. © Rockfax
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Grade: D ***
(Petite Aiguille de l'Arcelin)
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