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150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 115m. Not climbed nearly as often as its famous neighbour, this route really deserves more attention. The climbing is more homogenous than on the Rébuffat-Pierre and the 6a crack pitch is immaculate. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner capped by an overhang. Upon reaching the overhang, cross the slab rightwards to reach right-slanting flakes above a notch. Follow these on good holds to reach a double bolt belay 5m below and left of a distinctive fin of rock which leads to the overhang.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb the crack which leads rightwards to the corner. Follow this before stepping out right onto the fin just before the overhang. From the top of the fin, a couple more metres of slabby climbing lead to a belay in a notch.
3) 6a, 20m. A shorter pitch but this is the one you want to lead! From the notch follow the blatantly obvious hand-jamming cracks which drift left to a ledge via some classic granite moves.
4) 5c, 35m. The crack continues above the ledge but is slightly more vague and the angle begins to kick back, with the climbing getting progressively easier as you go. Belay on the huge ledge at the top of the Éperon, taking care not to knock anything onto climbers below. From here, scramble up and leftwards easily to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches:3, 5, 5+, 6a, 5+
Start up the gully to the left of the Eperon Face, then follow the obvious line to a big left facing corner and roof. Pull through this and climb the face and crack slightly left to the top. Sustained. Ab off or finish up the Cosmiques Arete.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Joe Nunn 30 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: started from below gully with an easy pitch followed by a 6a/6b pitch to join the original route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: started from below gully with an easy pitch followed by a 6a/6b pitch to join the original route.
ebluemn 24 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Classic f****** hand crack? Pitch 3 is more like a #5 camalot offwidth. There are some ancient pins and bolts that are on the face adjacent to the crack if you decide to face climb, but the description is not even close to being correct.
 
Show beta
βeta: Classic f****** hand crack? Pitch 3 is more like a #5 camalot offwidth. There are some ancient pins and bolts that are on the face adjacent to the crack if you decide to face climb, but the description is not even close to being correct.

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Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 3
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

North Ridge Aiguille de Peigne

Grade: TD ***
(Aiguille du Peigne)