UKC

240m, 5 pitches. 240m, M7+/ VIII 8
This five pitch route is accessed by an abseil in to the Passerelle Couloir either off the bridge or under the viewing platform over the Cosmiques Arete:

Pitch 1 – 60m – V,6

Belay 15m up from the start of the Perroux Route in a small snowy bay, 20m down and to the skiers left from the abseil on the middle rock spur in the Passerelle Couloir. Climb up a mixed snowy bay and traverse right below an overhanging red granite head wall. Move up a groove to the right of this head wall but make an airy, snowy traverse right, before the groove narrows between the rock, across a mini snowfield (20m), to a good flake belay at its end.

Pitch 2 – 55m, V,5

Move right from the belay and climb the overhanging flakes, exiting right. Follow the vague groove directly up, to the left of the rib, to reach snowy blocks beneath a 15m cracked wall of red granite.

Pitch 3 – 55m – VIII,8

Climb up the mixed chimney above and climb the long crack in the center of the wall, to the right of the triangular shaped niche on its left. Pumpy torques up this crack lead to a very balancy and exciting step left into the top of the crack on its left and a snowy niche. Climb the corner crack out of this snowy niche and up to the base of the groove.

Pitch 4 – 60m – VIII,8

Climb the groove direct, using the thin ice seam in its back to exit at the finishing moves at the top of the Cosmiques Arete.

Pitch 5 – 10m

Finish the last moves up the Arete and onto the Viewing Platform at the Midi Station. No fixed gear, screws or pitons used.

Dave Almond and Mark Thomas 16/Mar/2013.

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Route of Interest
Les Intouchables

Grade: ED3 ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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