III, 240m. A marginally easier option than the Vent du Dragon, this excellent little route varies significantly with conditions so get it when it's fat or be prepared for some scratching!
1) 3, 60m. As for the Vent du Dragon.
2) 2, 20m. Continue for 8m up the snowy mixed ground to reach a snowy col. Step right here to belay at the left-hand end of a snow slope.
3) 4, 55m. Cross the snow slope to the right and climb the steep corner. In good conditions this is straightforward but with minimal ice it is a tricky exercise in dry tooling, at about M4. Above the corner, continue up 60 degree ice to a belay at the foot of a rock buttress on the left.
4) 4+, 55m. Step right back onto the 60 degree ice and climb this into an increasingly narrow gully. 5m after the gully steepens and narrows to just a metre or so wide, exit it onto a steep, juggy rock wall on the right. This is usually best climbed with (gloved) hands instead of ice axes and leads to a belay on a sloping ledge, just right of an icy runnel.
5) 3, 50m. Step left into the icy runnel and follow this up some 70 degree ice and some short mixed steps to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Goulotte Profit / Perroux III 4, M5
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