III, 400m, 4 - 5 hours. The features on the route are clear and following your nose is easier than trying to stick to a detailed topo so only the crux pitches, or those with difficult route finding, are described individually. On the sections described by the feature they follow, it may be possible to move together in places and to split the pitches - whatever works best for you.
1) 4c. Climb two 50m pitches (4c) up the slabby runnels above the snow patch and then traverse right to reach a large horizontal ledge.
2) Traverse the ledge rightwards to the foot of a ramp system.
3) 5b. Follow the ramp for three 50m pitches (5b), aiming straight for a deep-cut chimney which is visible all the way up.
4) Climb cracks below the chimney and belay at the foot of where it really widens.
The next three pitches are described in detail as the section above the chimney seems illogical at first and is the scene of many teams going off route.
5) 5c, 40m. It is best to leave your rucksacks here and haul them up having tackled the chimney. You'll thank us for that bit of advice when you're halfway up, even if it looks innocuous enough from below! Using all the style you have, thrutch up the chimney clipping a couple of welcome pegs and exit rightwards at the top. Step up and left to belay.
6) 5b, 15m. Climb a crack on the left and then step right around a rib to belay on a hidden large ledge.
7) 6a, 30m. Head up the steep wall above the belay via a steep jamming crack to reach an arête. Avoid the overhang above by following another crack rightwards to reach a deep, light-coloured groove. Once in this, step down 1m and go around a rib on the right to reach another hidden ledge and belay here.
8) 5c. Climb the groove above the belay and then follow a ramp leftwards (5c, flakes and cracks).
9) 4c. Where the ramp flattens off, head right and climb cracks up a light-coloured slab to gain the ridge below Pointe 3078m. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
13-14 pitches, good belays, nice chimney at half height and crux roof pitch thereafter. Descent is bit tricky as the best rap line is, if one comes up on the far left pointe, found by traversing to the next pointe and locating the rap rings that are on the SW side providing a straight shot down to where boots and bags are left at beginning of climb (think about 10 raps, all with solid rap ring anchors).
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents