II, 100m, 1 hour. Although commonly used as a descent route, the East Face is still a worthwhile route in ascent, with minimal technical difficulty and a glaciated approach making it an ideal first alpine route. From the snow bay on the left of the face, climb blocky ground to reach a natural diagonal ledge which traverses all the way to meet the Northeast Ridge. Climb this to the summit via some satisfying easy scrambling over blocks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is usually best when leaving from the Trient Hut to walk towards the Col du Tour and then skirt round below the frontier ridge to the base of the peak (1hr). Halfway up NE ridge, between the deep gap seperating the 2 summits and the S top, is a shoulder. Climb the face directly to this and follow the crest to the top. 2hr from the Trient hut, 3.5hr from the Albert Premier.
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