400m, 12 pitches.
No description has been contributed for this climb.
Piola, Monnet, Gravent 1990.
Ticklists
Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Swiss Alps - Les Plus Belles Courses
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ali.scott | 30 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: I don’t think the approaches in the Plaisir or Piola guides are accurate now that the glacier has receded so far. The illustration in Plaisir is useless and looks more like the 1993 map in the hut than the current situation. It is MUCH more than 1h20 if you avoid the rocky spur and go left and drop down to the glacier, as described in the Piola guide. It’s about 200m vert down awful untracked rubble and steep moraine (even further if you want to avoid this), then a 400m vert slog back up the glacier. Having subsequently spoken to Piola he said there’s a weakness in the granite slabs somewhere below Pt 3174 that is passable without losing too much height. All in all if you don’t know the area I would recommend doing one of the routes starting to the east of Fenetre de Suzanne instead, the approach is way faster and more obvious. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I don’t think the approaches in the Plaisir or Piola guides are accurate now that the glacier has receded so far. The illustration in Plaisir is useless and looks more like the 1993 map in the hut than the current situation. It is MUCH more than 1h20 if you avoid the rocky spur and go left and drop down to the glacier, as described in the Piola guide. It’s about 200m vert down awful untracked rubble and steep moraine (even further if you want to avoid this), then a 400m vert slog back up the glacier. Having subsequently spoken to Piola he said there’s a weakness in the granite slabs somewhere below Pt 3174 that is passable without losing too much height. All in all if you don’t know the area I would recommend doing one of the routes starting to the east of Fenetre de Suzanne instead, the approach is way faster and more obvious. |
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| KaiW | 2 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Still very very good Route ( i climbed it in summer 1995 already with exit via Chevauchee) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Still very very good Route ( i climbed it in summer 1995 already with exit via Chevauchee) |
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Route of Interest
Dorées les ballades
Grade: TD 6a ***
(Aiguilles Dorées)