UKC

Rockfax Description
90m. A fine little route which is easily escapable throughout. Start at the foot of a lichen-covered slab which is invisible until you're right below it.
1) 5a, 15m. Follow the slab to a belay on a block.
2) 5c, 12m. Step across the gap behind the belay to a groove. Getting into it is tricky but staying there is even trickier! Follow it to a slab and climb this to a belay on top of a pinnacle.
Abseil 10m into the gully and belay at the highest point. It is possible to scramble up the first 3m of the next pitch to a belay but the ledge above the gully is more comfortable.
3) 5a, 25m. Climb out of the gully and up the ridge just to the right of the crest to an excellent short corner. Belay above that on a large ledge. In the unlikely event that the route is busy, there is a second belay 3m higher.
4) 5b, 25m. Continue on the right of the ridge crest on superb, positive flakes. When directly under the summit tower, step up to a ledge. Follow this to its right-hand end and swing round in a fantastic position onto the top of the Rébuffat-Terray. Follow this to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
(aka La Biscant)

Ticklists

Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: i guess the step across the gap would be very difficult for the short, but appart from that the route is 5a max imo
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i guess the step across the gap would be very difficult for the short, but appart from that the route is 5a max imo

Logged Ascents

129 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 36 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Le Carnotzet

Grade: 5c ***
(Col de Colombiere)

Loading Notifications...