Rockfax Description
200m. The longest route at Chéserys but not one of the best. The climbing is good in the lower section but the top half is broken and grassy in places. That said, if the other routes are busy or you just fancy a longer route, this is a fun little adventure. Abseiling back down is awkward as the route goes diagonally so many people opt to carry their packs up the route, walk up about 200m to the track coming down from Lac Blanc and descend this back to the car park.
1) 5a, 2) 4c, 3) 5b, 4) 5b, 5) 4c.
From here, walk across the grass, climb the small bulge and continue easily to a belay in the middle of a grassy slope. Walk/scramble over a mix of rock and grass to a stance at the foot of a slab.
6) 5a. A bouldery move off the belay is the crux.
7) 3c. After this the climbing kicks back in both angle and difficulty. From here, continue up easy slabs to the top of the crag. There are bolts to show you the way and the climbing is very straightforward. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Long route left of Voie Blanche area, 5b max. Topo here http://herve.thivierge.pagesperso-orange.fr/topo_aubade.jpg
Ticklists
Chamonix Valley "Easy" Multipitches
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| philipjardine | 23 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: this certainly isn't true at the moment. there is a lovely first pitch exactly where marked on both rock fax and Hervé Thivierge | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: this certainly isn't true at the moment. there is a lovely first pitch exactly where marked on both rock fax and Hervé Thivierge |
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| philipjardine | 22 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Much better than the rather disparaging description in rock fax. Some really nice climbing on grippy, solid rock. The link to Hervé Thiverge's excellent (as always) topo pic has a typo in it. This is the correct one: http://herve-thivierge.pagesperso-orange.fr/topo_aubade.jpg | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Much better than the rather disparaging description in rock fax. Some really nice climbing on grippy, solid rock. The link to Hervé Thiverge's excellent (as always) topo pic has a typo in it. This is the correct one: http://herve-thivierge.pagesperso-orange.fr/topo_aubade.jpg |
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| Webster | 18 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: wrongfax strikes again! the first pitch starts on a single bolt with tat (currently) on the grassy ledge above the first belay on the topo. this is reached by a bit of a vegetated scramble in from either the left or right. pitch 3 or 4 (5 on the topo) continues up the arete to a belay on a white rock outcrop just above the top of the big triangle of rock which forms most of the route, it does not cross the gully, from here you can absail directly down to your bags in 2 rope lengths (50m). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: wrongfax strikes again! the first pitch starts on a single bolt with tat (currently) on the grassy ledge above the first belay on the topo. this is reached by a bit of a vegetated scramble in from either the left or right. pitch 3 or 4 (5 on the topo) continues up the arete to a belay on a white rock outcrop just above the top of the big triangle of rock which forms most of the route, it does not cross the gully, from here you can absail directly down to your bags in 2 rope lengths (50m). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges
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Lezard coquin
Grade: 5b ***
(Le Tuet)