UKC

100m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
150m. Something of an esoteric classic, this is worth doing for the situations and enjoyment of moving fast up a ridge rather than the climbing itself. There are a few fun sections of good climbing and the odd tricky move to keep you on your toes. There is not a lot in the way of fixed gear but there is generally just about enough to keep you on track. Start at a hidden piece of thick cord which is threaded through a drilled hole in a spike. There is a bolt 4m up which is easier to find than the spike. There aren't set belay stances and it can be broken up differently if required.
1) 4c, 35m. Follow grooves and slabs to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue easily to a short, steep groove which is gained via an awkward little move. Belay at the top of the groove beneath a steep orange wall.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the steep wall and the easier slab above.
4) 5c, 35m. Continue along the ridge crest on easier ground to where it steepens. Follow a ledge system out left for 4m and then climb directly up a steep corner.
From here, scramble along the summit ridge easily to a notch and descend from here to the foot of the final pitch.
5) 5c, 30m. Climb the cracked slab and move left as the angle eases. Continue up easier ground to a bolt belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the obvious left arete of the large buttress on the right of La Grande Floria. Follow the bolts. Two reasonable grade 5a pitches. The last wall on the last pitch is 5b direct and nice climbing but can be avoided on the right. Abseil descent down the west face, 50m would probably do it.

Godefroy Perroux and Thomas Dulac 05/Sep/2002.

Ticklists

Neonatal Alpinist 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jack Geldard 15 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a good route. Gets better with height. All belays double bolted. Sparse bolts and odd peg on the pitches, placed 2 cams on the route, there are a few options for more gear if needed, but the harder bits are adequately bolted. Easy but exposed scramble off to the looker's right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a good route. Gets better with height. All belays double bolted. Sparse bolts and odd peg on the pitches, placed 2 cams on the route, there are a few options for more gear if needed, but the harder bits are adequately bolted. Easy but exposed scramble off to the looker's right.

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High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 2
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arête Ryan/East Ridge

Grade: D+ ***
(Aiguille du Plan)

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