Loading Notifications...

Rockfax Description
I, 105m, 1 -2 hours. Start where the rock steepens and solidifies. This is just to the left of the ridge crest, on a ledge a couple of metres up and left from the foot of the buttress, at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
1) 4a, 18m. Climb an easy slab, step left and follow big flaky holds to two bolts on a ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Follow the ridge easily from the belay to a small col with a steep 4m corner on the right. Climb this to a sloping ledge with two bolts which, awkwardly enough, are a metre or so apart.
3) 4b, 12m. Take the ramp on the left of the belay to a 5m corner on the right. After climbing this, the belay is 3m further up the ridge on the left.
From here, scramble along the ridge via the odd bolt to where it ends. Drop down left and walk round to the foot of the next pitch, which starts on a slab to the right of a corner.
4) 5a, 18m. The first bolt is hard to spot but it is there, 4m up on the left. Start at the foot of a groove, which you gain via a short slab. Follow this for 8m then step left onto a ledge with another groove above it. Climb this and then the hand-jamming crack and flakes above.
Scramble along the ridge behind and either make a 20m abseil off a metal ring, or continue until the ridge ends after 50m. Come back round onto the Chamonix side and walk to the final pitch, which is 5m onto the far side of a small col. There is an excellent 6a pitch next to the abseil line for those who fancy a bit of tougher climbing. The rock is superb, so hopefully more routes will be bolted on this wall.
5) 4b, 35m. Climb flakes and a vague groove for 15m to a grassy ledge. Follow this left into a grass filled groove which leads to a slab above. The belay is off a single bolt, which also serves as the final belay on Crakoukass (page ยงยงยง). © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
arvinw 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to locate the last two pitch when there is snow around - 5a pitch was nice bit of crack climbing - didn't do last pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard to locate the last two pitch when there is snow around - 5a pitch was nice bit of crack climbing - didn't do last pitch
tehmarks 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The last pitch is utter shite, I don't recommend it. The crux pitch is also apparently somewhat hard to find when there's a lot of snow around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The last pitch is utter shite, I don't recommend it. The crux pitch is also apparently somewhat hard to find when there's a lot of snow around.

Logged Ascents

109 users have logged this
31 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 5
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Southwest Face

Grade: AD+ 4c ***
(Dent du Geant)