Rockfax Description
350m. Arguably the best route on this face, this is an amazing line which somehow finds a way through the overhangs in the centre with sustained but never desperate climbing. The rock is loose in places but the best rock is on the hardest climbing.
1) 6b+. Quite the start! Follow the slab to a small ledge and continue more easily to a large terrace.
2) 5a. Drift up and left to belay on a grassy platform.
3) 6b. Climb the steep slab up and right to another grassy ledge.
4) 5b. Head up a large, easy flake on the left then go straight up where this ends.
5) 6a. Climb the stunning slab via a few bolts to a small ledge beneath an overlap.
6) 6a. Traverse left following a line of bolts. Climb a steep step and then continue up the face above to belay beneath a corner.
7) 6a. Follow the corner to a ledge perched below the impressive overhangs.
8) 5b. Continue up the remainder of the corner and a short steep section on good flakes before making a couple of exposed moves right to reach a grassy belay.
9) 5c. Traverse rightwards under the overhang on a slab, which is slightly dirty. The belay is at the foot of some steep ground, below and left of the final section of overhang.
10) 6b+. After what preceded it, this pitch comes as quite a shock. Climb straight up and then make a steep, pumpy traverse out rightwards to belay on an arête.
11) 5b. Follow the slab through a couple of overlaps to belay to the right of a section of red rock.
12) 6a+. Superb, athletic climbing leads up a steep wall.
13) Easier, broken ground leads to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Great sustained climbing firstly on slabs and then through overhanging corners up the west face of the Puce. Partially bolted. VII-, VI+, VII, V+, VI+, VI+, VI, VI+, VII, 150m of IV. Three pitches of seven
Nick and Tom's awesome Ticklist
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Grade: ED1 6c ***
(Les Perrons de Vallorcine)