UKC

Rockfax Description
130m. A great route with plenty of exposure but not too much in the way of difficulty. There is the odd bolt and peg, but this is a trad route so take a rack. Start just to the right of a large block, 10m from the left-hand edge of the grassy ramp.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, walk onto the scree slope below the Col de l'Index. Go up the scree and break out left onto the grassy ledge that splits the face. Cross the ledge on a good path to the start of the route.
1) 4c, 25m. Scramble up to the right of the block, pass behind it and climb the groove above. The crux of the whole route is midway up the groove and can be 'circumnavigated' with a pull on a handily placed peg. Belay on the ridge crest.
2) 4a, 30m. Traverse rightwards just below the ridge crest for 5m and then cross the ledge to reach twin cracks. Climb these easily to an exposed belay on the crest.
3) 3b, 25m. Follow a vague ledge system, in a spectacular position, to a block belay beneath a steep tower.
4) 4b, 15m. Climb the tower, pausing to take in the exposure, and climb over a small summit to a belay at the top of slabs on the north side of the ridge.
5) 4a, 20m. Downclimb the slabs before reclimbing up to a notch and passing back onto the south side of the ridge. Follow a ledge to a belay underneath the final summit ridge.
6) 3c, 15m. Scramble up to a notch in the ridge and then climb it directly to reach the flat summit arête. Belay halfway along this and then traverse easily across it and downclimb to the abseil point which marks the start of the descent.
Descent - Scramble down the northwest ridge for 10m to a reach several bolted belays (the peak can be very busy, hence the multiple abseil points). Either make a 30m abseil to just above the Col de l'Index and scramble down into the gully below leading directly to the Index chairlift, or make 3 x 25m abseils on bolted anchors down the northwest face in order to reach the gully further down. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, CUMC Ticklist, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Intro to Alpine, Alpine Progression

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: for once the rockfax description is pretty good, and the descent is spot on. there is a short 5m ish absail option to avoid the downclimb to the main absail ledge. from there it is easy with 1 50m rope doubled over in 3 abs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: for once the rockfax description is pretty good, and the descent is spot on. there is a short 5m ish absail option to avoid the downclimb to the main absail ledge. from there it is easy with 1 50m rope doubled over in 3 abs.
owainb 6 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Straightforward route finding. The crack on pitch 2 is a veritable treasure trove of swallowed gear (like a wishing well with pennies in!). Combined pitches 3 and 4. Abbed off doubled 60m rope to the left then down climbed a bit then climbed up and down to bolt for abseil down to path (didn’t descend through gully).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Straightforward route finding. The crack on pitch 2 is a veritable treasure trove of swallowed gear (like a wishing well with pennies in!). Combined pitches 3 and 4. Abbed off doubled 60m rope to the left then down climbed a bit then climbed up and down to bolt for abseil down to path (didn’t descend through gully).
GGD 5 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Felt P2 was harder than P1, certainly more sustained, probably UK Severe. One 60m rap from chains through two bolts and old loop gets you well down the Col d'Index. Rockfax description for 5th pitch not the best. Better: Step down slab onto N side and traverse to broken twin cracks on N side of the ridge, climb these careful for the loose blocks and traverse with a slight rise aiming for the bolts at the top of P6 of Brunat-Perroux.
Show beta
βeta: Felt P2 was harder than P1, certainly more sustained, probably UK Severe. One 60m rap from chains through two bolts and old loop gets you well down the Col d'Index. Rockfax description for 5th pitch not the best. Better: Step down slab onto N side and traverse to broken twin cracks on N side of the ridge, climb these careful for the loose blocks and traverse with a slight rise aiming for the bolts at the top of P6 of Brunat-Perroux.

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Route of Interest

Les Courtes Traverse

Grade: AD 2 ***
(Les Courtes)
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