150m, 7 pitches.
Rockfax Description
150m. Another Chéserys test piece with a famous (and now very polished) corner on the second pitch. The first pitch goes up a distinctive detached boulder.
1) 5b, 2) 5c. The classic corner.
3) 5a, 4) 5c, 5) 4b. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The classic route of the crag.
Ticklists
Chamonix Valley "Easy" Multipitches
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Noah Rachel | 30 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Decent Info: Scrambling up to the large ring 10 meters or so above the final belay would mean you could then abb down the gully (climbers left) in a straight abseil rather than going sideways from the top of the route. It then took 4 abseils to the floor on 50m ropes. Relatively clean line with fewer places for ropes to get stuck than abbing down the main route. ||||| Bolting: Be mindful of sending new climbers up P5; although relatively easy terrain, and well bolted where it is harder, the bolts are very spaced in the lower sections of the pitch, making it essentially a solo. I thought the bolting on P4 was sufficient without extra kit. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Decent Info: Scrambling up to the large ring 10 meters or so above the final belay would mean you could then abb down the gully (climbers left) in a straight abseil rather than going sideways from the top of the route. It then took 4 abseils to the floor on 50m ropes. Relatively clean line with fewer places for ropes to get stuck than abbing down the main route. ||||| Bolting: Be mindful of sending new climbers up P5; although relatively easy terrain, and well bolted where it is harder, the bolts are very spaced in the lower sections of the pitch, making it essentially a solo. I thought the bolting on P4 was sufficient without extra kit. |
||||
| Rob Exile Ward | 17 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very good climbing, interesting and precise. Some of the bolts are spaced, a small rack of wires can really make a difference! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Very good climbing, interesting and precise. Some of the bolts are spaced, a small rack of wires can really make a difference! |
||||
| Solaris | 30 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I've done the route twice, and the first time I led p4. I am not sure I agree with Webster's feedback: I didn't find the pitch dangerously run out or unsafe but rather exhilirating and slightly "out there". The style of climbing contrasts beautifully with the slab and then the corner, below. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I've done the route twice, and the first time I led p4. I am not sure I agree with Webster's feedback: I didn't find the pitch dangerously run out or unsafe but rather exhilirating and slightly "out there". The style of climbing contrasts beautifully with the slab and then the corner, below. |
||||
| Webster | 12 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: pitch 4 (the second 5c pitch) is dangerously runout and blind. you often cant see the next bolt so have to commit to some quite hard climbing well above the last bolt, not knowing if you are still going the right way (which is unusual for a sport route)... it needs two more bolts to make it safe! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: pitch 4 (the second 5c pitch) is dangerously runout and blind. you often cant see the next bolt so have to commit to some quite hard climbing well above the last bolt, not knowing if you are still going the right way (which is unusual for a sport route)... it needs two more bolts to make it safe! |
||||
Logged Ascents
202 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Maudits Bl'héros
Grade: 5c ***
(Tête de Bossetan - Les Terres Maudites)