Rockfax Description
350m. A classic adventure taking a cracking line up the face. The climbing is tough in places and the rock quality diminishes for the final few pitches, so don't take this one lightly.
Start at the top of the snowfield.
1) 3c. Scramble up to a belay beneath a wall.
2) 5a. Climb the wall and ramp above to belay on a small ledge.
3) 4b. Step right and climb easily to belay below steeper ground.
4) 5c. Move up through the overhang and climb the chimney above to belay below and left of a huge sweep of slabs. The route originally went out left here but this option is grassy and unpleasant so ignore anything leading left.
5) 5b. Climb the corner on the left-hand edge of the slabs before moving left at the top to belay above a small overhang.
6) 6a. Head up the right-hand corner-crack from the belay (ignoring the bolt out left in the vegetated crack, which is on the original line) and follow cracks above. Belay in a stunning spot under a large overhang.
7) 5c. Continue straight up towards the overhang and then make a fantastically exposed traverse out left to belay in a niche.
8) 5c. Step left from the belay then drift back right to a small ledge immediately left of another overhang.
9) 4b. Climb the chimney on the right and the slab above.
10) 4b. Move up directly and step right to belay.
11) 4a. Climb the slab up and rightwards from the belay and then come back left to reach a straightforward (but occasionally loose) corner system.
12) 3c. Follow this to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A magnificent long route, which is a true classic!
Mainly crack climbing with some superb positions

Pierre Kohlmann+Philippe de saint Armand Jul/1960.

Ticklists

BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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