4240m.
From Ratsek hut follow the trail along the Ak-Sai icefall, cross the glacier towards Teke-Tor pass (rope up!). Walk to the
pass via the right hand side snow couloir, walk close to each other, danger of loose rock. On the ridge turn right and
follow the ridge on the left hand side (rock II) until you reach a dihedral (5m, 85°, IV) best protected with size 3-4 cam in
the upper part of the dihedral crack. Once you exit, make a belay around a big bolder. Follow the ridge (rock I-II) making
use of in situ abseil tat (1-2 abseils). Bypass gendarmes on the right. From the summit continue on the ridge on the
right-hand side, exiting into a large scree gully, the 1B route, descend to Ak-Sai glacier. Avalanche danger in couloirs
after heavy snowfalls.
pass via the right hand side snow couloir, walk close to each other, danger of loose rock. On the ridge turn right and
follow the ridge on the left hand side (rock II) until you reach a dihedral (5m, 85°, IV) best protected with size 3-4 cam in
the upper part of the dihedral crack. Once you exit, make a belay around a big bolder. Follow the ridge (rock I-II) making
use of in situ abseil tat (1-2 abseils). Bypass gendarmes on the right. From the summit continue on the ridge on the
right-hand side, exiting into a large scree gully, the 1B route, descend to Ak-Sai glacier. Avalanche danger in couloirs
after heavy snowfalls.
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Route of Interest
Peak Raceka - Normal Route
Grade: AD ***
(Ala Archa National Park)