26m.
Rockfax Description
Formerly 7b+ (on a different line at the top) but now with more bolts and an easier finish. © Rockfax
FA. Rich Mayfield 2004.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| broganwoodcock | 26 Feb, 2023 |
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βeta: Pumpy towards the top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pumpy towards the top! |
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| LRob | 25 Dec, 2019 |
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βeta: Good but not great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good but not great. |
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| Neil Foster | 6 Jan, 2007 |
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βeta: This route has been ruined by the addition of several new bolts, the chopping of bolts on the original line, and the placing of a new belay which directs people up the rib right of the groove, thereby completely avoiding the old crux. This is a great shame, as Heaven Can't Wait used to be a quite superb, technical testpiece with intense, bold and insecure climbing - a very unusual climb for the area. I hate bolt wars, because in the end it is the rock which suffers, but if it was my route, I would be very tempted to chop the new bolts and attempt to re-establish the original line... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This route has been ruined by the addition of several new bolts, the chopping of bolts on the original line, and the placing of a new belay which directs people up the rib right of the groove, thereby completely avoiding the old crux. This is a great shame, as Heaven Can't Wait used to be a quite superb, technical testpiece with intense, bold and insecure climbing - a very unusual climb for the area. I hate bolt wars, because in the end it is the rock which suffers, but if it was my route, I would be very tempted to chop the new bolts and attempt to re-establish the original line... |
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| RD | 3 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: The route is spoilt by excessively long run outs between the bolts, bolts off route on the crux and inaddition to this the route is dirty. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The route is spoilt by excessively long run outs between the bolts, bolts off route on the crux and inaddition to this the route is dirty. |
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Route of Interest
Espresso
Grade: 7a ***
(Pinos)