UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
Formerly 7b+ (on a different line at the top) but now with more bolts and an easier finish. © Rockfax

FA. Rich Mayfield 2004.

Feedback

User Date Notes
broganwoodcock 26 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy towards the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy towards the top!
LRob 25 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good but not great.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good but not great.
Neil Foster 6 Jan, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This route has been ruined by the addition of several new bolts, the chopping of bolts on the original line, and the placing of a new belay which directs people up the rib right of the groove, thereby completely avoiding the old crux. This is a great shame, as Heaven Can't Wait used to be a quite superb, technical testpiece with intense, bold and insecure climbing - a very unusual climb for the area. I hate bolt wars, because in the end it is the rock which suffers, but if it was my route, I would be very tempted to chop the new bolts and attempt to re-establish the original line...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has been ruined by the addition of several new bolts, the chopping of bolts on the original line, and the placing of a new belay which directs people up the rib right of the groove, thereby completely avoiding the old crux. This is a great shame, as Heaven Can't Wait used to be a quite superb, technical testpiece with intense, bold and insecure climbing - a very unusual climb for the area. I hate bolt wars, because in the end it is the rock which suffers, but if it was my route, I would be very tempted to chop the new bolts and attempt to re-establish the original line...
RD 3 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The route is spoilt by excessively long run outs between the bolts, bolts off route on the crux and inaddition to this the route is dirty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route is spoilt by excessively long run outs between the bolts, bolts off route on the crux and inaddition to this the route is dirty.

Logged Ascents

107 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Alcalali

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 24 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sombrana

Grade: 7a ***
(La Solana)

Loading Notifications...