Climbs 65
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 315m a.s.l
Faces E
Samuel James-Louwerse at the top of Mitre Crack (VS) at Aldery Cliff. © Alan James
Crag features
Aldery Cliff is a secluded crag that offers a decent set of trad routes at some reasonable grades. The crag faces east and gets the morning sun. It is well sheltered from westerly winds. In hot weather, it is a good late afternoon venue. Generally, the quarry is quick-drying and doesn't suffer from seepage.In 2017 some misguided climbers chopped and poisoned the trees on the crag. This caused some unpleasant erosion on the upper sections where the trees used to provide useful belays, abseil points and hold the ledges together. In August 2020 fixed belays were arranged at critical points above the routes but usually below the upper sections of the original climbs. Virtually all routes now finish at a fixed belay. In keeping with the traditional ethic at this crag it is hoped that these will be used for belaying on and abseil descents and not for top-roping. Some can be used for lower-off but please avoid repeated top-roping.
Approach notes
Aldery Cliff is situated just to the southeast of the tiny village of Earl Sterndale - the crag is sometimes referred to as 'Earl Sterndale'. From the A515 south of Buxton, follow signs for Longnor. Earl Sterndale is signed off these roads. The crag is about 500m south of the village, right next to the road, and you can park in the area in front of the crag. Please make sure you close the gate at all times.
No Access Issues
New bolted anchors were installed in August 2020 (following discussion and agreement at Peak Area meetings,) to replace tree lower offs which had been removed during unsanctioned work in 2017. These anchors are setup to use for belay, abseil or lower off; with two stainless steel resin bolts, connected with stainless chain to a ring. As with all fixed anchors, if multiple people are going to climb a route and lower off or top rope, climbers should use their own carabiners to attach the rope to the anchor, with only the last climber re-threading and using the ring to prevent wear to the in situ equipment.
A list of the anchors and the routes they serve (in Peak Limestone North) is below, with the numbers relating to the marked up crag image in photos:
1: Best Forgotten Groove to Therianthropic (routes 4-6) 2: Jackorner to November Wall (routes 7-10) 3: Carmal to Rentaghost (routes 11-13) 4: The Arete to The Cardinal (routes 14-17) 5: Carmen to Carmen Mirander (routes 22-23) 6: Carmen Mirander to Lizzie (routes 24-26) 7: Ash Tree Arete to Ash Tree Slab (routes 27-28) 8: The first pitches of Central Arete to Clothesline (routes 22-36) 9: The Fly to Burst (routes 37-39) 10: The Bender to Terrace Wall Direct (routes 40-41) 11: Right Arete to A Pig in the Middle (routes 43-45)
Other considerations:
- As with many limestone trad crags, loose and friable rock can feature on the crag – be alert to this and consider wearing a helmet.
- Significant rock instability has been identified at the left side of the crag around the cave entrance (Sword and Stone to Hidden Corner), and right of A Pig in the Middle. These parts of the crag have significant areas of potentially unstable rock which could fall at any time and should be avoided.
- There is a cable handrail at the top of the crag to aid climbers passing a ‘bad step’ – do not belay from this cable as it is not sufficiently strong to use as an anchor.
- Fly tipping has been an issue at the crag in the past - please report any dumped material to the BMC Access Team and note down any vehicle number plates if you see the perpetrators in action.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Other
Bats have been known to use Mitre Crack as a roost in late spring/early summer. It is very obvious when they are present due to the noisy chattering coming from the depths of the crack - please avoid this route when the bats are present.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer dannyboy83