UKC

Climbs 191
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 609m a.s.l
Faces E

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Anne Arran on Cathares (7a) Les Spouglas, Alliat. © John Arran

Crag features

An extensive, varied crag with many of the best routes in the Ariège. This fine collection of sectors stretching downstream from Alliat village, offers steep slabs, overhanging cracks, walls and corners, as well as some tufas and curious caves. While the initial sectors have technical climbing on solution pockets and edges, other, such as Le Livre, tackle steeper ground on better holds. The Passe Murailles have fantastic 40m wall pitches. An 80m rope is a great asset for Passe Murailles and Le Livre.

The rock faces east and is an excellent venue for summer cragging, once the afternoon shade arrives (by 1pm at Le Livre but nearer to 3pm at Grotte aux Fées and the far left side of Loubetière) or for winter morning sun. Most sectors dry very quickly after rain, but some seepage will occur if there's been prolonged wet weather. Trees offer shade in many places.

Approach notes

From Tarascon-sur-Ariège, take the D8 south to Niaux. Branch right here (signs for Alliat and Génat), cross the river and wind uphill into Alliat village, which has a well-appointed car park next to the Mairie.

From the parking, walk up the road and after 20m branch off right on a large footpath crossing the stream, signed to 'La Grotte de la Vache' and the climbing. The first sectors are on the left just after the crest, reached in just a few minutes.

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Guidebooks

Visited the crag in June and all the crags were closed following an accident. Looked unlikely that they would be reopened quickly.
philmorris - 10/Aug/16
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Climbs at this crag

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