140m, 3 pitches. A fantastic route in the moderate grade range. Difficult to grade as it offers sustained climbing between WI3+ or 4- depending on condition. The direct/ central line is around WI4, not vertical but sustained in the 70-80 degree range. However, the best quality ice is situated on the left and right sides of the fall and this also offers the safest belay locations.

Pitch 1, 45m WI3+/4: Belay in a safe location at the base of the route and climb the lower wall and proceed upwards to a suitable belay at the side of the ice. The direct line is closer to WI4.

Pitch 2, 50m WI3+/4: Proceed upwards through the central line of the icefall until a snow slope/ easy angled ice. Follow this to the dog-leg where a gully on the left offers a good belay (re-direct screws necessary). If climbing the central line the grade is closer to WI4.

Pitch 3, 45m WI3: Climb the short wall and ice ramp to the top, follow the right exit (left side is possibly mixed). There is a small tree at the top that makes a suitable and safe belay away from the ice.

Descent: Contour around the mountain to the south east then east and descend a narrow gully on the southern side of Almfjellet that takes you back down into Polskaret (this may be ice if little snow). Stay on the northern side of the small stream and descend the slope/ ridge of Polskaret. The main gully is steep and likely a small icefall in itself so stay to the right as you descend.

Edvard Aasen & Jenney Mildenberger 2014.

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