Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
The golden, golden tower © Laurence
Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]
Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.
Safety note: the pillar on Grey Buttress is loose. The rock moves when pulled on at the start of the boulder. [CJ 06/20].
Climbers using the Left Wall Area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
June 2022: nest in the route Samarkand, avoid this route and those nearby. If you are in the area and can identify the species without stressing the birds, please let us know.
Tawny owls were also noted as nesting on Falkland Walls this year - this area should be avoided until the nest is vacated. Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
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