Climbs 218
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces NE

View Stats

Nipper © Jemma McGuinness

Crag features

The largest venue to be found on the Eastern magnesian limestone, Anston Stones Wood was once an esoteric backwater but is now a major and very popular venue; unsurprising given it provides an abundance of quality boulder problems, which somewhat unusually for UK limestone genuinely span almost the entirety of the grade range. This really is a crag where there is something for everyone. The climbing is typically steep, fingery and powerful on interesting holds and features. It also has the unusual benefit of being a year-round venue, offering typically dry and crisp climbing in winter when all of the central Peak limestone is soaking with seepage, while being generally shady in summer with areas facing all directions to suite the weather of the day.

Access to the Woods has often been tenuous over the years. Most recently, due to climbers crossing the train tracks, a fence was constructed in front of Apprentice Wall; it is strongly suggested climbers avoid this area and Network Rail have indicated anyone caught on the tracks will be prosecuted. 

Anston Stones Wood is a nature reserve and SSSI, hosting various important habitats and also being significant archaelogically. Evidence of human presence dates back to the Upper Paleolithic era (33,000 to 8,000 BC)! 

Some longstanding rules are in place given the area's status as a nature reserve and SSSI:

- No topping out; either drop or down climb.

- Climb only on the existing walls and buttresses listed here; do not attempt to carry out additional gardening or clearance of other areas. Various blocks exist in the woods which must be left to nature. Don't worry, there's enough here to last a very long time for anyone.

- The usual rules apply otherwise; take all your litter home, keep dogs under close control and pick up their poo, absolutely no wire brushing or chipping, etc. 


Approach notes

Adjacent to the A57 Sheffield to Worksop road 1km SE of South Anston. Ample parking available in two very large lay bys either side of the road. Please note that there was at least one instance of a car crime involving a climber's vehicle in 2022. Sadly the lay bys also seem to have suffered from people dropping litter; take a bin bag if you can! 

Approach along the large track from the parking. This leads through the middle of the woods and most areas can be easily accessed from it. Please stick to the existing paths; if you don't you're going the wrong way anyway! 

For Frodo and the Inset Area there is limited parking is available on the roadside near the cemetery. Please don't use the cemetery parking or block the gateway.

For Hidden Wall it is also possible to park on Rackford Road in North Anston. Park at the second layby after leaving the village then walk over the field to enter the wood at the nearest point.

Restricted Access

The bouldering at Anston Stones Wood all takes place on land owned by Anston Parish Council. To preserve the good relationship that climbers have with the Parish Council, The British Mountaineering Council have agreed the following guidelines which we ask all climbers to adhere to:

  • Stick to existing footpaths and firm ground, avoid trampling on vegetation
  • Pick up any litter you come across
  • Stay off the railway line
  • Climb only on areas that have already been developed (i.e. Woody’s Rock, the Wave area, Rocky Valley, Hidden Wall, Apprentice Wall, Dukes Wall, Through Post, and Frodo buttress.)

In addition to the above, avoid topping out where possible.

there used to be full route desciptions of maybe 40 or more of these routes on UKC years ago.. what happened to this info when the UKC site was updated? just lost?
nickcanute - 16/May/11 Some pics
me again - 08/May/05 quote" Please keep to the footpaths and note that rock climbing is not allowed anywhere in the wood." Bugger..been climbing there since I was 10.
stones - 08/May/05
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers NickBradley and Matt Cooke

Loading Notifications...