Orange Chandeliers © 1234None
The sea stack clearly visible from Ao Nang - you will pass it on the way to Tonsai or Railay by longtail boat.
Accessible by kayak or longtail boat. High tide is best. Climb in the shade otherwise you will fry. If you go by kayak make sure you descend while the tide is fairly high otherwise you'll struggle to get back into the kayak. Kayaks can be easily rented for about 150 baht per hour from the "Last Bar" at the end of Ao Nang beach, beyond all the massage shops. Fixed ropes exist to help access the crag and gearing up spot. From the gearing up spot traverse the fixed ropes leftwards to a starting belay by the big hanging stalactite...some may wish to rope up and pitch this traverse - the climbing is barely French 4.
A 3 pitch route exists which climbs almost to the summit (with - I believe, a further pitch with old/no gear if you want or need more adventure!). These pitches are named separately in the logbooks. This 3-pitch route is a real stunner and is radically exposed, with all styles of climbing from steep 3D climbing to vertical techy crimping. The top pitch - Bristol Fashion - has the best climbing and positions. Generally very well-protected with glue-in bolts and slings. Don't trust the old expansion bolts - use only the glue-in staples and slings. Feel free to replace old shitty slings on the way down if you have any old rope or slings that you don't want to carry home.
There is some loose shale on the ledges and a few "temporary holds", but neither detracts from the quality of the route.
You will need 2 abseils to descend from the top. The ab from the top of Bristol fashion to the belay at the end of P1 (Orange Chandeliers) is almost exactly 40m. An 80m rope doubled gets you down to this anchor. The same rope will then get you back to the starting belay. From here, make another short ab to a waiting longtail or reverse the traverse to the kayak and gearing up spot.
Note: The 3 pitch route starting up Orange Chandeliers may be a good option following heavy rain (so long as the sea is calm!), as it can stay fairly dry. Some of the stalactites and tufas on P1 may be a little damp. We climbed the route 2 days after the major floods in Thailand in Spring 2011 and there was not a wet hold on the whole route.
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