The climb that anyone who's been to Mt Arapiles will recommend you get on, even if you will think it's too easy. A brilliant route, sustained and exposed which will not disappoint.
Start behind and right of Plaque Wall at a smooth slab.
P1 - climb the steepening slab (slightly bold) to gain a blocky flake line. Climb this and then follow the obvious fault up and right to gain a small belay ledge as the rock steepens.
P2 - step right off the belay, round the arete and then up to the horizontal break. Follow this back left round the arete, and squirm left in a fantastically exposed position to gain another belay ledge.
P3 - climb up and right from the belay (either traverse delicately right then climb up, or climb up then traverse right on undercuts) to gain a bottomless chimney. Make more exposed moves up this to a nice ledge.
P4 - step left then continue direct up a steep, but jug-strewn wall to reach a huge ledge (Bard Terrace - one can escape left here to access Ali's via an exposed downclimb). Rather than traverse off however:
P5 - either climb the awkward chimney or the wild wall to the right to reach easier ground below Bluff Minor. Sit there marveling at the experience of low-grade climbing at Mt Arapiles.
From the top, walking forward a few metres one comes across a downclimb through a hole into a dark cave (Ali Baba's). From here squeeze through a small hole to come out behind John's Pinnacle. Walk right round this to join Ali's descent, a short distance above the top of the chains.
Start behind and right of Plaque Wall at a smooth slab.
P1 - climb the steepening slab (slightly bold) to gain a blocky flake line. Climb this and then follow the obvious fault up and right to gain a small belay ledge as the rock steepens.
P2 - step right off the belay, round the arete and then up to the horizontal break. Follow this back left round the arete, and squirm left in a fantastically exposed position to gain another belay ledge.
P3 - climb up and right from the belay (either traverse delicately right then climb up, or climb up then traverse right on undercuts) to gain a bottomless chimney. Make more exposed moves up this to a nice ledge.
P4 - step left then continue direct up a steep, but jug-strewn wall to reach a huge ledge (Bard Terrace - one can escape left here to access Ali's via an exposed downclimb). Rather than traverse off however:
P5 - either climb the awkward chimney or the wild wall to the right to reach easier ground below Bluff Minor. Sit there marveling at the experience of low-grade climbing at Mt Arapiles.
From the top, walking forward a few metres one comes across a downclimb through a hole into a dark cave (Ali Baba's). From here squeeze through a small hole to come out behind John's Pinnacle. Walk right round this to join Ali's descent, a short distance above the top of the chains.
Newlands and Hocking 3/1965 Mar/1965.
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17 Down Under , Mt Arapiles: classic routes not to be missed.
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