57m, 2 pitches. Another absolute classic, fantastic sustained climbing on both pitches, neither of which are a push-over. Gear is generally good but care is required to avoid a fall directly onto the belay from the start of pitch 2. Double ropes useful.

P1 (22) - start immediately left of Kingdom Come at a vague corner. Pull up into this, then awkwardly follow the line up and left to gain a sloping ledge. Up the crack, then mantleshelf onto the traverse of Judgement Day with difficulty (bolt above). From here step left and climb onto the small pedestal. Off the top of this directly up the wall, which arcs back right to join Kingdom Come at the belay/abseil station. Awkward hanging belay here.
P2 (21) - Arrange some gear in Kingdom Come to avoid a direct fall onto the belay, then step right with commitment to gain the hanging crack in the right wall. Strenuously up this to ledge on the arete, then step left and climb the wall to the left of the arete (slightly lichenous at points) to the top with interest (the orange corner on the arete to the right is the top pitch of Shivers).
45m abseil back to base of route from top of Lamplighter.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

43 users have logged this