UKC

15m. The original route up its seaward face was done in the 70's with four pegs for protection. Over time these have deteriorated and have ultimately been replaced with stainless resin retained bolts to give a fine outing at about 5+. Watch the rock near the top. The anchor on top is a ring on a long resin retained threaded bar. It is tricky to find amongst the tufts of grass at the top of the stack- as of 8/10/20 an extremely rusted carabiner was attached to the bolt. Due to the uncertain nature of the rock on top it is prudent to back up the ring bolt with a rope anchored at ground level and taken right over the top and down the far side as was the original method of descent.
A very atmospheric climb when the sea is raging.

BEST AVOIDED FROM START OF APRIL UNTIL END OF JULY AT LEAST DUE TO NESTING GULLS ON TOP.

Early in the season is best or later in autumn.

Ticklists

7aMax Top 30 routes , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , 3* Scottish Sport Climbs , STAUMC Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Russell 17 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Would be a good Samaritan move for somebody to take a shifter and remove all the rusty bail maillons from the route. Counterweighted off each other to ab/lower off opposite sides as didn't fancy solely trusting the one bolt in iffy rock.
Show beta
βeta: Would be a good Samaritan move for somebody to take a shifter and remove all the rusty bail maillons from the route. Counterweighted off each other to ab/lower off opposite sides as didn't fancy solely trusting the one bolt in iffy rock.
kyle.bailey1 12 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: New bolt with ring has been added at somepoint on top. Solid abseil is now available.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New bolt with ring has been added at somepoint on top. Solid abseil is now available.
theadsterr 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Be warned, the raging sea makes it difficult (impossible) to communicate with each other when belaying. Walkie talkies or preestablished signals will be useful
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be warned, the raging sea makes it difficult (impossible) to communicate with each other when belaying. Walkie talkies or preestablished signals will be useful
Olisherwood 12 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe take a new quick link for the abseil down... the current situation is a bit rusty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maybe take a new quick link for the abseil down... the current situation is a bit rusty

Logged Ascents

138 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Arbroath

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 52 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Silence of the Clams

Grade: 5c ***
(Arbroath)

Loading Notifications...