15m.
The original route up its seaward face was done in the 70's with four pegs for protection. Over time these have deteriorated and have ultimately been replaced with stainless resin retained bolts to give a fine outing at about 5+. Watch the rock near the top. The anchor on top is a ring on a long resin retained threaded bar. It is tricky to find amongst the tufts of grass at the top of the stack- as of 8/10/20 an extremely rusted carabiner was attached to the bolt. Due to the uncertain nature of the rock on top it is prudent to back up the ring bolt with a rope anchored at ground level and taken right over the top and down the far side as was the original method of descent.
A very atmospheric climb when the sea is raging.
BEST AVOIDED FROM START OF APRIL UNTIL END OF JULY AT LEAST DUE TO NESTING GULLS ON TOP.
Early in the season is best or later in autumn.
A very atmospheric climb when the sea is raging.
BEST AVOIDED FROM START OF APRIL UNTIL END OF JULY AT LEAST DUE TO NESTING GULLS ON TOP.
Early in the season is best or later in autumn.
Ticklists
7aMax Top 30 routes , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , 3* Scottish Sport Climbs , STAUMC Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lee Rae | 4 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can someone please remove all the rusty mailion quick links. 1 bolt had 3 in it!!!! Made it so difficult to get quick draws in and impossible to clip stick. Would love some bolting hero to go put a second bolt and ring in the top. We abseiled off the single bolt at the top very dodgey and was scared it would blow. Richard pulled out some loose rock between bolt 2 and 3. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can someone please remove all the rusty mailion quick links. 1 bolt had 3 in it!!!! Made it so difficult to get quick draws in and impossible to clip stick. Would love some bolting hero to go put a second bolt and ring in the top. We abseiled off the single bolt at the top very dodgey and was scared it would blow. Richard pulled out some loose rock between bolt 2 and 3. |
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| Adam Russell | 17 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Would be a good Samaritan move for somebody to take a shifter and remove all the rusty bail maillons from the route. Counterweighted off each other to ab/lower off opposite sides as didn't fancy solely trusting the one bolt in iffy rock. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Would be a good Samaritan move for somebody to take a shifter and remove all the rusty bail maillons from the route. Counterweighted off each other to ab/lower off opposite sides as didn't fancy solely trusting the one bolt in iffy rock. |
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| kyle.bailey1 | 12 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: New bolt with ring has been added at somepoint on top. Solid abseil is now available. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: New bolt with ring has been added at somepoint on top. Solid abseil is now available. |
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| theadsterr | 19 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Be warned, the raging sea makes it difficult (impossible) to communicate with each other when belaying. Walkie talkies or preestablished signals will be useful | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Be warned, the raging sea makes it difficult (impossible) to communicate with each other when belaying. Walkie talkies or preestablished signals will be useful |
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| Olisherwood | 12 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Maybe take a new quick link for the abseil down... the current situation is a bit rusty | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Maybe take a new quick link for the abseil down... the current situation is a bit rusty |
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Route of Interest
Silence of the Clams
Grade: 5c ***
(Arbroath)