120m, 4 pitches.
One of the best short multi-pitch routes in Yosemite Valley and the first to be graded 5.11. This was also the first 5.11 solo (John Bachar in 1976).
The route is at the right hand side of Arch Rock and is shaded most of the day. (The first pitch does get sun in the morning). Begin at the base of a steep hand crack in a flared corner.
Pitch 1. Climb the corner crack through a variety of sizes including a short section of finger locks which lead to a good ledge at the base of a chimney. It is possible to walk-off right from this ledge. 5.10.
Pitch 2. A short finger crack leads to a squeeze chimney which is followed until it pinches down. From here double cracks lead to a short section of stemming and a good rest below the base of another flared chimney. It's possible to belay here, but with good rope management it's possible, and preferable to combine this pitch with the next one. 5.9.
Pitch 3. Make a difficult move to enter the chimney and follow it (good tight hand crack in the back) until it deposits you on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner. Belay here. 5.10.
Pitch 4. Follow the crack in the back of the flared corner as it gradually thins from hands to fingers. The crux is usually considered to be a short section of finger locks towards the top of the pitch, though your experience will likely depend on the size of your hands. Belay on a ledge when the crack ends. 5.11a.
The climb protects well with nuts and cams up to #3 BD.
From the top of the climb it is possible to traverse (climber's left) to the anchor at the top of Gripper and abseil that route (two ropes required). Alternatively, there is often a fixed anchor at the top of the route and with a 70m rope it is possible to abseil to a two-bolt anchor at the right end of a ledge which is level with the base of the flaring chimney at the start of pitch 3. From this anchor another 35m abseil takes you to the ground.
The route is at the right hand side of Arch Rock and is shaded most of the day. (The first pitch does get sun in the morning). Begin at the base of a steep hand crack in a flared corner.
Pitch 1. Climb the corner crack through a variety of sizes including a short section of finger locks which lead to a good ledge at the base of a chimney. It is possible to walk-off right from this ledge. 5.10.
Pitch 2. A short finger crack leads to a squeeze chimney which is followed until it pinches down. From here double cracks lead to a short section of stemming and a good rest below the base of another flared chimney. It's possible to belay here, but with good rope management it's possible, and preferable to combine this pitch with the next one. 5.9.
Pitch 3. Make a difficult move to enter the chimney and follow it (good tight hand crack in the back) until it deposits you on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner. Belay here. 5.10.
Pitch 4. Follow the crack in the back of the flared corner as it gradually thins from hands to fingers. The crux is usually considered to be a short section of finger locks towards the top of the pitch, though your experience will likely depend on the size of your hands. Belay on a ledge when the crack ends. 5.11a.
The climb protects well with nuts and cams up to #3 BD.
From the top of the climb it is possible to traverse (climber's left) to the anchor at the top of Gripper and abseil that route (two ropes required). Alternatively, there is often a fixed anchor at the top of the route and with a 70m rope it is possible to abseil to a two-bolt anchor at the right end of a ledge which is level with the base of the flaring chimney at the start of pitch 3. From this anchor another 35m abseil takes you to the ground.
Jim Bridwell FFA Bates & Wunsch 1972 May/1970.
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Route of Interest
Into the Groove
Grade: 5.11a ***
(Medlicott Dome)