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Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 824m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

The main cave of Archidona is one of the World's most impressive sport crags and its line-up of state-of-the-art climbs are worthy of a visit by any climber if only to view just what it is possible to climb. Unfortunately there are no good easier or mid-grade climbs here, even on the margins of the cave, but for climbers looking for good hard routes this is a top spot. The majority of the climbs are extremely long, sustained and overhanging giving spectacular pitches of very high quality. The outlook from the crag is magnificent, the rim of the cave framing the seemingly endless patchwork of olive groves that stretch away to the distant horizon.

The crag is north-facing and receives no sun apart from on its left-hand side late in the day. During the winter it is generally cool but climbable and is a good venue in spring in autumn. Most of the hard routes will be climbable in heavy rain although some of the tufas will begin to seep if it is prolonged.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, head for Antequera via Valle de Abdalajis. Go through Antequera following signs for Granada and pick up the main autovia (A92) heading east towards Granada. Follow this to the second Archidona exit (Junction 167). Head towards Archidona and after 0.9km turn left onto a dirt road and then after 0.4km turn left again. 0.6km along this dirt road is the parking (do not block the road). The crag is above you. Follow a path through the olive grove up into the cave. (1 hour 10 minutes from El Chorro depending on traffic).

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Climbs at this crag

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