UKC

Climbs 12
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 94m a.s.l
Faces W

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Ardvorlich Sports Crag © magpie

Crag features

This well hidden crag consists of near-vertical steep wavy mica schist climbing, offering technical and balancy climbing. It's not an easy option for beginners with nothing below 6a.

Note that contrary to both the 7aMax and SMC guides there are only four lower offs - the one shown on the far left of the LHS slab doesn't exist!

Some of the lower-offs are quite far back from the edge so it's suggested you take long slings to extend these over the edge if top-roping.

Please use your own hardware if you are top-roping to avoid wearing out the lower-offs.

Also don't be a dick and steal the lower-offs. That's really not cool.

See http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Ardvorlich for topo and access info.

Approach notes

Being only forty minutes from Glasgow, and ten minutes from the roadside, this is an idyllic sport venue on the west bank of Loch Lomond. A knoll behind Ardvorlich B&B hides twin west facing walls - this is a few miles north of the Inveruglas tourist spot on the Loch (by the Power Station). Park in a lochside layby on the right just before the signs for Ardvorlich BandB (if you miss it, you can turn here). Cross the road and jump the fence, head uphill to the landy track. Follow this left underneath the railway, then back right uphill. At the first swithcback you'll see the walls across the bracken beyond the two burns. Head towards the double-pylon and over the two burns.  Bash through the bracken to the crag in about five minutes. 

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Guidebooks

Tick hell on Sunday. Up to seven feet bracken. Could not see top hangers or lower offs. Never went to top to check if lower offs were back from the top due to huge bracken.
Nick_Scots - 06/Sep/21
Tick city today! We decided not to climb and head back to the car just after reaching the crag and noticing they were all over our bags/us....you have been warned!
Mike Cox - 31/Jul/21
All lower-offs now replaced/repaired across both slabs. Note that the lower-offs differ from the Topos in the guide books. (LHS slab only has two and RHS slab has three)
drconline - 07/Sep/20
It's schist, not shist, in the description.
Cobra_Head - 02/Sep/20
Hangers are still missing on two of the lower-offs on the RHS slab. I've ordered some replacements and will try to fit them in the next few weeks.
drconline - 30/Aug/20
Climbed here today for the first time. Walk in is OK, though the last part is a lot of bushwhacking through braken and some small streams to cross. Crag itself is interesting - very cool wavy rock formation. The routes are NOT easy. In our post-lockdown form we struggled a bit, so don't expect this to be a soft option. Two of the lower-offs on the lefthand face (above the Groove) have a rusty Maillon and a rusty carabiner on them. Forgot to bring a spanner to replace them. Just clipped directly. You definitely need a few slings to allow a top-rope setup which is what we used. Also beware the big tree root at the top is pretty rotten though you can get a bit of accessory cord right round it as a backup anchor. Lots of midges of course. come prepared.
drconline - 11/Jul/20
Visited on 12/5/19, 3 hangers were missing from lower offs at right side of crag (Routes Snake eyes and dilemma) so single bolt lower off.
seanhendo123 - 14/May/19
VERY overgrown walk in (june). The bolts felt really spaced on 'snake eyes'...its cited as a 'great place for beginners' in the sport climbing Scotland book but I disagree due to the bolting. Nice rock and technical, crimpy climbing tho
ejj - 24/Jun/14
Don't park at the B&B, you'll be asked to leave!
John 'B' Hutchinson - 11/Oct/12
The appalling bolting is only present on That Sinking Feeling and, to a lesser extent, Snake Eyes. Pre-placed slings needed to climb these as sport routes. Magic Carpet Ride is NOT as sport route. The other normal routes are very nice. NB The access given in Gary's guide might be subject to change as the cottage owner by the B&B entrance is concerned about damage to his water supply.
Fiend - 13/Mar/12
Nice spot, sparing bolting is nice. Lower offs need mallions or rings. Second bolt on the groove is loose...maybe next visitor could take a spanner up :)
sebrider - 17/Dec/11
This crag would be 100% better with more bolts. The routes were E3 5c before bolting. Still bold. Davie
Wee Davie - 02/May/07
Well worth a visit,even just for some top rope action. Bolts can be quite spaced when leading adding to the fun.Foot of the crag can be marshy
mike71 - 11/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

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