Climbs 161
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW
Pete Gunn on Armathwaites Full Frontal, E6 6a © OllieF
Crag features
A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river. Recent tree clearance has opened up all of the right end of the crag - more routes should now be in condition throughout the year.Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).
PLEASE NOTE
Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead of such climbs.
If setting top ropes, please make sure to extend the ropes over the edges to stop erosion and cutting grooves. A high sling in a tree rather than around the base works well.
Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall! Please don't climb when the sandstone is damp and fragile.
There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere along the crag.
The bouldering problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Hetherington's Bay problems (Photo Topo) https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=278636 Split Boulder problems (Photo Topo) https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=195147 Further problems including Under the Dome and the new roof (Coombs Cave) can be found on Lakesbloc.com or in Greg's new guide.
Many of the N.L. routes in the Eden Valley guide are slowly being whittled down (currently only 1 left!) so you may need to cross reference UKC with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to update your guide book - Pete Gunn.
Approach notes
Park by the bridge and go through the squeeze style in the parapet of the downstream side of the bridge, and a short flight of steps, leads to a path under the bridge and up stream along the bank of the river. After 800m the path forks above a natural weir. Keep left for the main cliff and scramble down some rocky steps to come out just above Sandy Bay area.
No Access Issues
The rock at these crags is a soft sandstone - only use very soft brushes to clean hold (no wire brushing) and take care when setting belays.
Game shooting takes place in the nearby Coombs Wood during the season - usually on Fridays and Saturdays.
The Forestry Commission who own the crag have carried out a program of tree clearance along the crag base to improve climbing conditions with funding from the BMC. The timber generated from this has been stacked at the base. It is hoped that further limited clearance will be will be done in the future.
| Massive tree clearance is renovating the crag, the whole right end end is very open and sunny and many more routes here deserve climbing! Fiend - 19/Jul/17 |
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| All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide. petegunn - 15/Apr/14 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers petegunn and Greg Chapman