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Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 22m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

Some of the climbing is on impressive flowstone formations in the cave roof and can offer excellent climbing on wet days. The outer walls have some good quality climbs which have been neglected owing to their dank and shady setting. These rely heavily on fixed gear, though the term fixed gear should be taken lightly. The crag would make a worthwhile restoration project.

The crag is north-facing and shaded by trees. The cave can offer some climbing in light rain but suffers from condensation when the weather has been bad for a while.

Approach notes

From the centre of Brixham, take the road which hugs the harbour to Shoalstone car park. From there, cross the road and dive into the trees. 1 minute of flailing will reveal the crag in all its majesty.

No Access Issues

Whilst the South Devon Guide notes that retrobolting of the older routes is a possibility, this is currently inadvisable. Please contact the local BMC access representative for the full picture before considering any actions.

TR stands for thread runner. Some are in situ and some require you to put the slingthrough the thread yourself.
francois - 14/Jun/11
I am a sport climber, so have no trad gear or trad experience. In the Guidebook it says for Wayne; 'A unique route, despite going nowhere. Climb steep rock passing 4 TRs. Lower off the last TR after climbing past it to touch the back wall with your feet!' So I was wondering what is a TR and can it be climbed with sport gear (quickdraws) or does it require Nuts and Cams? Other routes say they have TR's as protection but all have Trad grades, so the ones with TRs can they be sport climbed?
Ellis Butler-Barker - 28/Mar/11
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Climbs at this crag

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