Rockfax Description
A fantastic outing with tricky route finding on the second pitch and a tough few moves in the final corner. Start just to the left of the cracked groove.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb up to the base of the groove and a bolt. Continue up to the left side of the groove on good holds and rock.
2) 5c, 30m. Traverse left on good pockets until you are below a prominent line of bolts that lead up to steeper rock by a X made from cracks. It is easy to miss this as there are many bolts on this slab. Go up a line of weakness to the X. Pull onto and over the steep X - short lived crux.
3) 4b, 35m. Reach the first distant bolt. Traverse left across the bottom of the bay to reach better rock on its far side. A hidden bolt relieves the tension - you are advised to take some gear for this pitch. Go up and left to another bolt and then up past a tree and another bolt below a steep crack. A two bolt belay is on the right just above this.
4) 6a, 30m. Traverse right to the base of the chimney. Don't be tempted to head up since the other route is considerably harder. Make tricky moves up the first section of the chimney. It soon lets up. Don't go left but take the right-hand groove past more bolts to a two-bolt belay on a windy col.
Descent - With a single rope abseil from here to the bay below and abseil again from the anchors on the edge. With two 60m ropes you can abseil straight down from the top anchors. © Rockfax

Feedback Always Hide βeta